My Wilson’s have been exceptional this year, both in flavor and quantity. Here’s a photo of today’s ‘drops’. Minus 4 or 5 that went with my son, and another couple of 3 or 4 personally dispatched.
Hope the picture doesn’t come out sideways (working from an apple tablet). The thumbnail indicated it was skewed, attempted a 1/4 rotation on edit after a try of mechanical rotation of the machine…both left a quarter turn rotated thumbnail. Returned machine to the landscape mode and from edit function, accessed the rotation button again for a full 360 degrees- voila! the thumbprint seems properly oriented. Thanks Rooney for the tip about tablets having some sort of gyroscopic misrepresentation (I’m sure that’s not what you said, but it’s what I can get to) sort of thought I’d give it a whirl. We’ll see what happens when I submit. Here’s hopin’.
Looks good James. My biggest pawpaw tree is a mistake. It was supposed to be Wells, because that's a variety that was supposed to have not very much of that stuff that might be bad for you in pawpaws, that they aren't sure about yet. However, I bought the tree from a company that no longer exists (Miller Nursery), and later found out that Wells doesn't taste very good. Then I realized that pawpaws are delicious, cool, and interesting, and they add diversity, but they arent' a big part of my diet, so I'm not worried about that whatever chemical is in pawpaws that might damage something so much anymore. Anyway, I'm eating a lot of them and they taste good, but it is a mystery variety/ seedling.
Looking good James, I'm a bit jealous, mine are growing super slowly.
John, pawpaws are pretty straightforward to graft. Having an established, producing tree is a big headstart.
I'd rather have an established seedling than the very best young, grafted tree. Because the seedling is a quicker path to harvests of whatever variety you want.
Did you do a whip and tongue graft on your pawpaws?
I haven't grafted a pawpaw yet. I keep growing seedlings from my fruit.
I've almost given up on my pawpaws. I have had three die above the graft, although their rootstocks are growing. One of those rootstocks might be big enough to bloom next year. Of the remaining two, the bark is peeling on the NC1 like the Sunflower did before it died, and Mango has never thrived - 5 feet tall at 7 years old. I have a few seedlings that I just planted in a shady place but have my doubts.
The one year when they produced, I liked them a lot.
Daniel, Thinking back, I’m pretty sure my Mango was near that size at that age. I only have the two to compare, Wilson and Mango. Wilson was earlier to flower and was alway a bit more vigorous. I had considered that light exposure was a factor, but now seem to remember that Mango was described as being of smaller stature. Wilson now stands about 22’ and Mango some 17-18’, although Mango has a V split or widow maker as used to be called, about a foot and a half above the soil line… that might have some effect I’d suppose. Wilson is planted maybe 14’ South of the Mango, their leaves touch. M was shadowed more in the early years from the East. West direction for both has always been over story of Camilia or Walnut and 2story garage. Both of these Pawpaw are taller than the seedling trials from the early 90’s at the germ plasm repository in Corvallis despite probably being in the ground maybe 15 years less. I don’t do any particular feeding, might have put some homemade compost in the planting hole. After they were already mature, every few years I’d mulch with Hawthorn litter from the hardscape of the driveway,(Hawthorn is no more, took out the last remaining last spring), or shredded material from the homestead, to deter grass and weeds and condition the soil.
Don’t give up on them just yet!
James, I'll continue trying.
My pawpaw seedlings got bad bad treatment this year. I didn't water most of them enough. Maybe they will survive in the shady place where I planted them. They are only a foot tall. If next year is good, I will have a better chance to take better care of them.
It's strange I have had three die above the graft, with the rootstocks staying alive. I wonder if there is some sort of borderline delayed graft incompatibility that causes that in my not ideal for pawpaw microclimate.
Daniel, I believe I recall overhearing a discussion of a question on grafting pawpaw where the direction seemed to suggest that (maybe because of Pawpaws brittleness?) the approach of bark grafting, as possibly being a better option. This overheard discussion was from an old Home Orchard Society Open House at the arboretum, the year the NAFEX general meeting was held in the Portland area. Participants included Dr. Ron Lastname escapesme, then president of both the National and Ohio Pawpaw Growers association.
I would defer to Jafar about his experience with his whip & tongue results, if he’s noticed anything similar over time.
Recently a friend looking for both Pawpaw and Ume to plant was having no luck with the local nursery’s/outlets; maybe due to graft failures I conjecture. (He dug quite a few seedlings from my place to get a start anyway)
James, maybe that was Lon Rombaugh. I couldn't find much on him and pawpaw - here is a link regarding pawpaw propagation. Rombaugh was mainly the guru of grape growing.
They had trouble growing them at Oregon State, some mysterious disease killed most of their trees.
It was mysterious and seemed like it was worse for grafted trees if I understand correctly. Wilson was disease resistant.
I would love to see fruit from my current trees, even if from the rootstock. The rootstocks are just seedling pawpaw, possibly from named varieties, so who knows.
I remember reading on the Kentucky State website, I think, about how t-budding wasn't effective for pawpaws.
Maybe the bark isn't good for that?
I must be full of it, again.. Reading in Andrew Moore’s ‘Pawpaw in search of America’s forgotten fruit’ copyright 2015, probably just around the time of that NAFEX meeting in the NW, gives anecdotes of Ron Powell (my Dr. Ron) teaching whip & tongue grafting of pawpaws at the Ohio Pawpaw Festival, while a Marc Stadler, identified as “another OPGA member and experienced horticulturalist” teaching the cleft graft as meeting two important criteria, first, it’s effective and secondly- very easy. Maybe I should have stood closer to the conversation eluded to. Sorry for the potential misdirection.