Hi all,
Im sure this is a probably a newbie-type question but have been unsuccesful finding an answer.
What is the *best* length to get for scion wood?
I just spent the last hour collecting scion wood and the majority of the wood is only 4-8 inches in length with a few that are almost a foot. Is this too short? Most of the newest growth is only 5-6inches.
Thanks for your help,
-Jeremiah Goudreau
As long as it was last summers growth with regularly spaced buds, you've got a winner.
And all you really need is a single bud or two for a whip graft. Just protect the grafted scions from drying out {elmers glue or something}, and you are good to go!
I have recieved by mail "scionwood" that was 2 and 3 years old, all gnarly, and I couldn't really see any good buds. I just guessed at what I thought might be something that would grow. Well, 5 out of 5 guesses worked! That is a rescue situation. Sounds like you have all sorts of good wood.
Don't worry!
[quote="Jeremiah":2dxdmgip]
What is the *best* length to get for scion wood?
I just spent the last hour collecting scion wood and the majority of the wood is only 4-8 inches in length with a few that are almost a foot. Is this too short?
-Jeremiah [/quote:2dxdmgip]
I agree with Plumfun’s assessment … but when I end up making the graft, the longer the better with regard to scion wood. It’s great to be able to match their diameters to the stock with a whip & tongue graft, or have something husky enough to hold its own smashed between a large stock cleft graft.
Plus, long pieces leave you plenty of whittling room! ...or room for mistakes... If you’re salvaging an old tree, take all the new growth you can find. If you’ve got lots of tight-budded water shoots to choose from, 14 inch lengths work good for me, about the length I can roll inside a wet piece of newspaper and seal with two bread bags end to end – with several rubber bands to keep it relatively sealed …and don’t forget to label them! Good question.
I've found that stored scionwood tends to turn brown on the ends. I prefer to cut an inch off the end and dispose of it when making a graft. If the scionwood piece is too short, and it dies back from both ends, pretty soon there isn't much left worth using. If you plan to do your grafting soon after collection of the scion then short scion isn't too bad. If you're planning on waiting several months before doing your grafting then longer pieces of scion will keep better.
Thanks for the great answers.
The scion wood I was collecting yesterday was from a large, older apple tree that is very tall and hard to get at the branches. I actually had to use my kayak paddel to bend the branches down so I could snip them.
They are in refrigeration but am a little worried as I have read this online: "Storing in the same refrigerator as fruit and vegetables could abort the buds on the scions, ruining any chances of successful grafting." from http://www.gardenguides.com/87757-save- ... -wood.html .
There are fruit and veggies in the same refrigerator but the scion wood is wrapped in damp paper towels, wrapped in newspaper and stored inside airtight 2 gallon ziplock baggies.
Is this gonna be alright storage, since they are in an airtight container?
Also, a side question: Which grafting method do you prefer for apples and why, saddle graft or whip and tongue graft?
Apples seem to take well to just about any graft. I use whip and tongue mostly and occasionally some veneer grafts or bark grafts, depending on the size of the branch I'm grafting onto. I've never tried the saddle graft. It looks like it would be difficult for a beginner to prepare the saddle portion of the graft to match the wedge portion, guess you could do the saddle part first then whittle the wedge to fit better. Much easier to make the whip and tongue - just two beveled ends that you cut a slit into and slide together.
[quote="Jeremiah":3t8grnp8]Thanks for the great answers.
The scion wood I was collecting yesterday was from a large, older apple tree that is very tall and hard to get at the branches. I actually had to use my kayak paddel to bend the branches down so I could snip them.
Some of use use 15 foot extendable pole pruners. Mine has a rope and pulley system. Gets the utter best wood from near the tops! Have even heard of scoped rifles getting down some really high wood!
They are in refrigeration but am a little worried as I have read this online: "Storing in the same refrigerator as fruit and vegetables could abort the buds on the scions, ruining any chances of successful grafting." from http://www.gardenguides.com/87757-save- ... -wood.html .
There are fruit and veggies in the same refrigerator but the scion wood is wrapped in damp paper towels, wrapped in newspaper and stored inside airtight 2 gallon ziplock baggies.
Is this gonna be alright storage, since they are in an airtight container?
Maybe another Ziplock as insurance? Not sure what the permeability of ziploc plastic is to ethyline gas. Could you store a few scions in a glass jar all sealed up?
Also, a side question: Which grafting method do you prefer for apples and why, saddle graft or whip and tongue graft?
I find the Whip&Tongue to give the most cambial surface to surface contact, also it is somewhat more flexible when odd size-matchings become necessary. The more contact, the more healing, the stronger the joint sooner. I used to look at roof trusses and marvel how they joined some of the timbers together -- all interdigitated! With a little glue, those timbers had maximal surface area for contact. Same for grafting.
[/quote:3t8grnp8]
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