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Scion exchange & last year's grafts
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Marsha
204 Posts
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1
February 28, 2008 - 10:51 am

I'm repotting several of last year's grafted apples and pulled off the stretched and failing grafting tape from a few, and the unchanged tape from more. Some of the grafts do not appear to have taken at all - visible distance between scion and rootstock - some appear to have sealed on only one side, and one I'm reasonably confident about.

Problem - I didn't trust myself and my 50%-to-date success rate, so I paid to have my half dozen trees grafted by those more skilled. Looking at the juicy state of the buds on the rootstock and the mostly dried ones on what should no longer be scions but vigorous parts of a tree, I'm thinking that last year's success rate was even worse.

Should I bring my failures and questionables in to be re-worked?

mh

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PlumFun
495 Posts
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2
February 28, 2008 - 5:29 pm

I would say go to the show, pick up some scion wood that you like. Hang around the grafting tables and watch them graft for an hour or two. Apples are real easy, it should be a snap to learn if you watch the masters for awhile. That is my advice.

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Viron
1400 Posts
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3
February 29, 2008 - 7:29 am

Marsha, “and pulled off the stretched and failing grafting tape from a few, and the unchanged tape from more.” – What do you mean by tape?

“Some of the grafts do not appear to have taken at all” – After one full season you’ve not seen any growth from various scions..?

“Looking at the juicy state of the buds on the rootstock and the mostly dried ones on what should no longer be scions but vigorous parts of a tree” – There should be far more than “juicy buds” on the rootstock, if it’s still alive. The only way the rootstock could have survived is having received energy from 'leaf surface' last summer; it will not sit ‘dormant’ waiting. If there was no growth from scion or stock, both must be dead. FYI – scrape above and below the graft with the edge of a knife until you hit green, living cambial cells. If not, they're goners.

I provide aftercare info with the grafts I do at the Exchange, I believe they describe what to do if there’s no scion growth; allow a shoot to form from the rootstock and use that next season to graft onto (or bring it back to us). But you must keep it alive and growing.

“Should I bring my failures and questionables in to be re-worked?” – As mentioned; the rootstock would need to be alive… There shouldn’t be much to question, either there was growth from the scion, or not. If so, and it didn't freeze inside the pot this winter, it should be alive. As mentioned, if the scion had died, the only way to have fed the rootstock was for it to have sent up shoots. If it did, and one’s the diameter of a pencil (or larger), bring it in and look me up – after paying at the door (I suspect) and grabbing a replacement scion…

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John S
PDX OR
2835 Posts
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4
March 1, 2008 - 11:08 am

Make sure to keep them watered. Some of mine almost died when they didn't receive water. Then I watered them and they revived. When I didn't water t;hem enough, they died. I found this to be true not only of my grafts that I did myself but also of the ones grafted at the Scion exchange.
John S
PDX OR

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Marsha
204 Posts
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5
March 1, 2008 - 10:24 pm

Phoo - I replied to Viron's post, and my reply seems to have gone into the ether.

Viron - the tape I mentioned is what looks like low-tack masking tape, under the yellow rubbery coating. I shouldn't have said "failed," because I think the tape only separated on the more solid grafts where the trunk swelled and grew.

One of the 6 little trees has buds popping on the scion piece; 5 have smaller buds showing green on the rootstock, and several of the 5 might be starting to show some life on the scions. All of the scions leafed out last year, but they didn't grow much. One grew about an inch and a half of corkscrew and looks very odd. One I transplanted had a mass of white roots that looked like nothing I've seen in any young apple I've moved.

They all seem to be alive, and I don't know if I should just have patience and wait for the grafts to fully heal - hope that the cambium manages to grow full circle, and let it take as long as it takes. Should I just wait?

John, thanks for the warning. I do try to keep my little nursery (lots of baby Japanese maples as well as the apples) watered in the summer, but some of the maples inevitably get burned. That suggests that all of the babies would probably appreciate more attention - and water.

mh

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Viron
1400 Posts
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6
March 2, 2008 - 9:25 am

Marsha: “low-tack masking tape, under the yellow rubbery coating” – got it. Though I’ve never used masking tape, it’s described to allow for expansion by those who do. The “yellow” was of course Doc Farwell’s grafting seal.

“One of the 6 little trees has buds popping on the scion piece” – then the ‘entire tree’s’ alive.

“several of the 5 might be starting to show some life on the scions” – If there’s life in the scions, they’re ‘trees’ too…

“All of the scions leafed out last year” – If they were full, normal sized leaves, the grafts took. “but they didn't grow much” – Were they in pots all year? If so, what size pots?

“They all seem to be alive, and I don't know if I should just have patience and wait for the grafts to fully heal - hope that the cambium manages to grow full circle, and let it take as long as it takes. Should I just wait?” – I’d Baby Them! And put them in a permanent location, if possible - or very large pots.

We had a question about fertilizing during the first group at the grafting classes. Consensus was no; the roots are too tender. By now, fertilizer may work for yours; organic, or slow release. Do watch for competition from those rootstock buds, with little top growth, I’ve seen them ‘take over’ - re-channeling energy away from the scions.

The full callusing of the cambium should happen as next years growth adds another ‘ring.’ Just watch them close, sounds like they’re off to a rough start ~ but I can’t say why?

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