I have two and three year old trees, about 25 trees of various kinds. I am ready to start pruning, I think, but need advice. I read on a previous post that pruning is better done during the summer to prevent water shoots. Is this true for young trees too?
Thanks in advance!
dan
It depends on the tree. With stone fruit, I would prune it when it is dry, so as to not open it for infection. It's partly a matter of taste. In winter, you can see the limbs better because the leaves aren't in the way. It can open some trees to infection, though.
However, in summer, pruning can have a stunting effect on the tree, whether you think that is good or bad is up to you.
John S
PDX OR
I am not an expert, but I have the concept that summer pruning in our mediterranean climate can be a bit rough on trees because of the hot weather and lack of water. For apples and pears in the Willamette Valley, February seems to be the ideal pruning time. Pruned at this time, they will be coming out of dormancy soon after cuts are made, during a time when there is plenty of water to go into the process of healing, and when temperatures are generally mild enough not to be creating other forms of stress. I don't know that everyone will agree, but this is my take on it.
Also, young trees typically can use more training than pruning. I wonder where you are in Oregon - if you happen to be in Portland I'll be moving up there in about a week, and I'd love to help you with your orchard. You can contact me at jorahfawn@yahoo.com.
Dan,
I would not prune young trees in summer, they need their full ability to gather and store nutrients. But they definitely need pruned; which (as mentioned) amounts to training at this age and stage. And, (also mentioned) February would be ideal in the Pacific NW.
…and if you’ve an offer of help – grab it! …if I were closer I’d love to do the same.
I’ve seen many wasted years and ‘messed up’ trees because their owners made little or no effort to prune them at the age of yours. They assumed they’d ‘turn into trees’ - and then prune them. One set of friends had done just that, or, the few heading cuts they’d made were not the serious ones needed to make for a strong and balanced tree. Sometimes the necessary cuts can appear brutal… so prepare yourself.
If you are willing to cut some spreader sticks and tie down and over some branches with twine ... that ‘extra’ effort would be rewarded. If you don’t have the time then you at least need to make the serious cuts leading to well balanced trees. It looks to me like you’re off to a good start 
Thanks for the replies.... The trees are in Eastern Oregon.
When you write about heading cuts, I am not sure what you mean.
What I have tried to do is to have 2 or 3 branches, creating a whorl of branches, out of the trunk. Then I try for 2 - 3 foot of no branches and start the process again, paying attention to the lower branch direction, again with shading in mind.
I have cut out any branches that are headed straight up and ones that overlap. I also have pruned out branches that do not have a wide enough angle to the trunk. I think I do need some spreaders though.
The trees range from 6-12' in height and 4 or so produced a few apples last year. I did heavily thin the fruit. if I remember right.. granny smith, cortland, gala and harleson produced.
these are semi dwarf and standard trees.
no branches below 36" on the trunk.
They are irrigated.
Thanks again!
dan
By heading cuts “I†mean cuts on last year’s growth; usually shortening the stem and ‘aiming’ the bud downward. Those cuts become less critical with age.
Sounds as if you’re developing central leaders… I go for ‘open vase,’ spreading 3 or 4 main limbs beginning around 3 feet from the ground then allowing them to ‘fan out.’
With “two and three year old trees†(especially in snow country) at 12 feet high… I hope they can take the loads. One way to get fruit fast is to let trees ‘sprawl.’ Research orchards do just that, they don’t care about the shape or structure of the tree, all they’re doing is accessing its fruit - ASAP. But if you go for height first you’ll end up with spindly trees. I prune and train for strength first, time happens … and fruit comes… but it’s difficult to ‘bulk-up’ a tree once it’s attained ‘maximum height.’
I’m glad to see you’re not afraid of ‘standard trees,’ wish I’d have planted all standards! Semi-dwarfs on poor soil with plenty of space and water are a frustrating mix.
Sounds like you’re off to a great start though.
One thing you may hear from us on the West side is "Stone fruit envy". You will be able to grow great peaches, nectarines, apricots, and almost any kind of cherry. It's easier for you over there because it's dry in Spring. We have wet Springs, which bring diseases and make growing those fruit difficult. Montmorency pie cherries grow well here when pruned properly, but bush cherries tend to have problems. When pruning those fruit, you need to do it when it's dry. Over there, that would be ........ almost the whole year. You have to be more careful over here, and with those fruit, it's still very very difficult. Warning- some of us may get jealous when you talk about eating juicy organic peaches from your backyard . Seriously, keep us posted on your efforts.
John S
PDX OR
Thanks for the tips! Yeah, I live in the Portland area and love to go through the gorge and get out of the wet.
I have also planted apricots, peaches, cherries, pears, and cider apple trees, too. 
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The 12' tree is a granny smith... boy, does that go straight up! Most of the others are in the 8' area or shorter. I am thinking I need to cut the main leader to strengthen the truck and branches.
This year is Blueberry planting! Along with a winecrisp, pink lady, and a karmion De Jonneville.
Again, I really appreciate the advice!
dan
Idyllwild
jafar
Marsha H
Viron
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