For that (ie. malus vs prunus) there's so much difference in the "pre-planning" and the "aftercare". And each varies based on which cultivar, the combination used, and where you are yourself. At this point based on what you say (and location unknown) it's assumed you have bad scions or rootstocks which require special raising requirements for each the top or bottom half themselves.
They go by books of recommendations for a "less fussy" take and proper matching when it comes to stone fruits. Depending on what others here may iterate, it might be better for many a person to wait until covid ends and training sessions startup again.
Myself, I find no "success differences" between "spring budding" when it compares to full fledglings for apples or stone fruits. This is where I am in touch with some at the moment behind the scenes to consider training people that graft stone fruits to scrap the convenience of the stick graft, for the more reliable spring bud.
Exactly where are you?
Rooney said
For that (ie. malus vs prunus) there's so much difference in the "pre-planning" and the "aftercare". And each varies based on which cultivar, the combination used, and where you are yourself. At this point based on what you say (and location unknown) it's assumed you have bad scions or rootstocks which require special raising requirements for each the top or bottom half themselves.They go by books of recommendations for a "less fussy" take and proper matching when it comes to stone fruits. Depending on what others here may iterate, it might be better for many a person to wait until covid ends and training sessions startup again.
Myself, I find no "success differences" between "spring budding" when it compares to full fledglings for apples or stone fruits. This is where I am in touch with some at the moment behind the scenes to consider training people that graft stone fruits to scrap the convenience of the stick graft, for the more reliable spring bud.
Exactly where are you?
california , it gets 100 + in the summer, trying this on already growing trees / branch
Pre Planning:
:: using scionwood ::
You are good to go with stick grafting stone fruits when you seek out those that store scions at or a few degrees below freezing temps no matter where you live.
:: freshly flushed buds of the current season ::
Here in "our" valley there is a long enough growing season to make immature buds into healthy woody material. So not absolutely imperative to store scionwood in dormancy per the method outlined above.
I know of one nursery that I can vouch for who's scions are stored in dormancy at those exact requirements stone fruits and cultivars prefer to be stored at off the tree. I will PM you a link to the one nursery. If green budding in the spring is what you prefer -please form a HOS search term "Green Grafting Tip", I think without quotes, I think will get you to that method.
BTW that's a great question for this time of the year with (maybe) barely enough time to collect dormant enough wood from prunus.
I think apples and pears are much easier but plums are very easy too. I do whip and tongue in late winter and early spring. I think peaches need warmer conditions, I have only got one peach graft to take and I accidentally killed that one. I've done cherries by either whip and tongue or bud graft, both seem to work fine.
Maybe the plum problem is technique? They seem to do fine with whip and tongue in March here in Battle Ground WA.
I am not experienced with California but somehow I think weather in the 70s would be better than hotter weather until they are growing actively.
See this post for my two bits.
https://forums.homeorchardsoci.....lum/#p4459
FWIW I did about sixty grafts of all types last season, my first, and lost 15 of those. About half of the loses are likely due to incompatibilities based on the failure of both duplicates. My only training was from the videos by Ken Coates mentioned there.
To the list of notes I would add that I wrapped my grafts completely in parafilm after first wrapping them with grafting tape. Also, I wrapped the grafting tape very tightly to eliminate air pockets and ensure contact of the graft union throughout.
Zone 6a in the moraines of eastern Connecticut.
I've successfully budded peach, at lower take rates than other things.
My traditional grafts have been fails. Although I've also never seen, in person, good looking dormant peach scion wood.
Plums are easy. And even grafting them to peach trees. Cherries don't seem bad either. At least for those two I've been able to source good looking dormant wood. And I generally graft them to established trees. Although last year I dug up and transplanted dormant St. Julian suckers, then grafted them over after they leafed out. One of those has a nectarine and a peach budded to it, but it was current season bud wood.
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