Menu Close
Avatar
Log In
Please consider registering
Guest
Forum Scope






Start typing a member's name above and it will auto-complete

Match



Forum Options



Min search length: 3 characters / Max search length: 84 characters
Register Lost password?
sp_TopicIcon
oblique cordoning -- do I need wires?
Avatar
justalittlegardenobsessed
56 Posts
(Offline)
1
June 5, 2007 - 10:26 am

Hello excellent orchardists:

I've planted apple trees -- whips, I think they are called -- at 45 angle attached to stakes as an attempt to oblique cordon them. Do I also need to string wires along the trees to attach the fruit spurs to, or can I just prune the spurs so they are evenly spaced? I have espalier books that recommend the wires, but I don't quite see why they are necessary.

Thanks kindly, Dorothy

Avatar
David Conners
22 Posts
(Offline)
2
June 19, 2007 - 2:27 pm

The wires make it easier. Here's what most people do: With green stretchy tape, tie the cordons to a stick of bamboo to keep the cordon straight. With anything else, tie the bamboo to the wires. The key is the bamboo and the green stretchy tape, which, in combination, will keep your cordons straight and parallel to one another. Otherwise, your cordons will most likely curve up and toward the sun.

Avatar
justalittlegardenobsessed
56 Posts
(Offline)
3
June 24, 2007 - 10:10 pm

Thanks ... The stakes are solidly set at a 45 degree angle to the ground, and the cordons are attached to the stakes, so the cordons are not curving up. But what do the wires enable?

Avatar
David Conners
22 Posts
(Offline)
4
June 25, 2007 - 8:34 am

What you've done is somewhat different than is commonly done, but perfectly OK.

Here's what is commonly done: Vertical posts on either end serve as "bookends" with horizonatal wires stretched in between the end posts. In this scenario, the wires provide support to the bamboo sticks (which are attached to each cordon with green strechy tape that does not bind into the trees). It's usually cheaper to do it with vertical end posts and horizontal wires than with individual stakes.

Another advantage of the "end-posts-with-wires" scenario: The wires also allow you to train all your cordons to grow at the same rate of speed. Here's how this is accomplished: (1.) tilt upward one of more of the cordons to a steeper angle (which encourages growth of the cordon) OR (2.) tilt downward one or more of the cordons to a flatter angle (which discourages growth of the cordon). Tilting one or more upwards or downwards encourages your cordons to grow "in sync" with one another in case they might be growing at different speeds.

But what you've described is OK too. Whether you train your cordons with individual stakes (as you are apparently doing) or in the manner I've described, here's an important TIP: Do NOT bind your condons 100% of the way up from the bottom to the very tops with green stretchy tape. Instead, in the training stages, leave the topmost 8" to 12" or so loose, which will cause each tip to curve upward and grow more quickly than if you had bound it all the way up. This will encourage each cordon to grow faster to the height you want it to reach.

Avatar
justalittlegardenobsessed
56 Posts
(Offline)
5
June 25, 2007 - 9:36 am

OK, thanks very much for the information, that's very helpful. Is getting the cordons to grow at the same rate mostly an aesthetic thing? I'm more concerned about getting the trees to start producing fruit as soon as possible, and I'm not sure what to do with the side branches growing off the oblique cordon. Are these fruit spurs? How should I space and arrange those to encourage fruit production? Do I need wires to arrange those optimally? Thanks again for the info; I've been trying to read espalier and pruning books and don't feel like I'm getting point, so I really appreciate the advice of those in the know. Best, Dorothy

Avatar
David Conners
22 Posts
(Offline)
6
June 25, 2007 - 10:18 am

Yes, synchronizing the growth of your cordons is mostly an aesthetic consideration. In order to encourage fruit production, you will need to learn how to "summer prune" (also called the "modified Lorette system"). Basically, your focus will be on learning (a.) how and why to prune off the terminal bud of each cordon (to encourage side branching), as well as (b.) how, why, and when to summer prune the laterals coming off the side branches [which, in combination with (a.) above, will encourage the production of fruit spurs -- which encourages the growth of more fruit].

Forum Timezone: America/Los_Angeles
All RSSShow Stats
Administrators:
Idyllwild
Moderators:
jafar
Marsha H
Viron
John S
Top Posters:
Rooney: 781
DanielW: 519
PlumFun: 495
Reinettes: 426
davem: 357
Dubyadee: 237
sweepbjames: 233
gkowen: 218
Larry_G: 187
quokka: 174
Newest Members:
Nanasi12
tritiumosu
osmogaia
BrandonS
brennele
yannick1107
larkiegarden
raryalvi@yahoo.com
lolilenon
Annabvak
Forum Stats:
Groups: 1
Forums: 4
Topics: 2903
Posts: 16716

 

Member Stats:
Guest Posters: 0
Members: 1403
Moderators: 4
Admins: 1
Most Users Ever Online: 232
Currently Online:
Guest(s) 13
Currently Browsing this Page:
1 Guest(s)