I wanted something fast and relatively inexpensive, with materials that are available and that I don't need to tension.
Grapes are pliable, and capable of being trained up and across anything. You'll have to determine if you'd like spur or cane pruning, but in the meantime you'll obviously train them across the wire. What's nice it you'll have fruit next year!
The photo worked well, but I couldn't make out how you attached the wire to the top of the steel posts... No biggie, just curious. I've seen 20 year old grape trellises fall over - and the owners rebuild new ones, attach the grapes - and the grapes will recover them in one season!
Just keep the deer away, then the raccoons and birds ... and the wasps and ants [insert greengrin]...
I like those posts Jafar. They are cheap and sturdy, just like me.
I couldn't get the video to play.
Viron's response was chopped up.
JohN S
PDX OR
Viron said
..The photo worked well, but I couldn't make out how you attached the wire to the top of the steel posts...
Its not wire, its 1" thin-wall galvanized steel electrical conduit.
Not mine, but same process:
For my blackberries I'm thinking of using 8' T-posts driven 2' in and then attaching 3/4" conduit using 2 hole hangers bolted on with nuts and lock washers. It will require drilling holes through the T-posts.
I like the idea of the 1" conduit. I'd suggest flattening each end of the conduit with a hammer or by clamping in a vise and then drill a 1/4" or 5/16" bolt hole to bolt securely to the T-post. I think the conduit might slip out of those couplers when a heavy load of vines accumulates on the conduit.
Dubyadee said
I like the idea of the 1" conduit. I'd suggest flattening each end of the conduit with a hammer or by clamping in a vise and then drill a 1/4" or 5/16" bolt hole to bolt securely to the T-post. I think the conduit might slip out of those couplers when a heavy load of vines accumulates on the conduit.
Hmm, I'd thought I'd replied but I must not have hit "enter".
Flattening the end isn't something I'd considered but is a good idea. Although In order for the conduit to pull out of the fitting it would have to shear the screw or tear through the conduit or fitting wall. The screw holding the conduit in place isn't a set screw, it pierces the wall of the conduit.
I suppose flattening the ends would get 2 wall thicknesses of purchase on the bolt.
If/when I bolt things to the T-posts directly I'll need to figure out how to pound them without allowing them to rotate. I'm not good at maintaining the orientation while I drive them.