Does anyone know of a landscape designer near Portland that knows their fruit trees, berries, and other edibles?
I'm working with a landscape designer to replace some crumbling old retaining walls holding a slope in my back yard. She's highly qualified -- the new slope will be gorgeous -- but she doesn't know much about edibles.
So I'm looking for a landscape designer to help me figure out, for example, the best place to put blueberries on the new plan, what will grow in shade, spots for small fruit trees, etc.
I talked to an "edible landscape designer" who knows nothing about fruit trees. His whole practice is helping beginner gardeners figure out where to plant their veggies. Which there's a great need for, but no use to me.
Thanks.
Hi Merilee,
There are a lot of people in the HOS who could do that. Viron could if he were here. I don't know if Jafar is too busy. Karen Tillou could do that. Vern Nelson would probably be interested in doing that. I don't know if they are too busy. I would be happy to talk to you about that. I think you want to get a sense of what the person does and what you are asking them to do. Obviously, the price is going to be different if you are just talking about a one day design versus multi-day, physically buying the plants and bringing them to your property. Talking to people at the AAFS like Jafar said would make sense. I will be there Sunday. You may also email me offline at skyjs at
yahoo dot com.
Thanks,
John S
PDX OR
Normally all fruits like sun, but small fruits (Blueberries, Strawberries, Raspberries etc..) give good crops even in partially shady position...Fig, Olive, Pomegranate and all mediterranean plants prefer full sun, Pear, Apple, Cherry can be grown also in half-shadow (with only half day of direct sun)
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Hi Merilee,
A new landscaping job always has great potential for creativity and experimentation, but can also have the occasional pitfalls. I'd suggest working on graph-paper first and laying-out the area, to scale. Factor in various aspects of the site such as where the sun falls during the summer as well as the winter (--the solstices). Also consider prevailing wind patterns and how that can affect the plants.
Make a list of the specific plants that you'd like to incorporate into the edible landscape, plot their mature sizes on the same type of graph paper to scale and cut these out to arrange on the landscape area drawing, then research what each type requires in terms of light, drainage, soil pH, and so forth. The soil type that you have to work with and its drainage -- to a great degree --will determine what types of plants should do well there. There may be portions where the soil will need appropriate modification, such as acidic soil high in organic matter with good drainage but also relatively steady moisture for blueberries.
The main problem that I usually see in professionally designed landscapes is a planting designed to "look good" at the outset, but as the plants grow and reach their mature sizes, some have to be cut out because their mature sizes weren't factored in.
These are just my 2-cents' worth. Take the time to research what you what you want, and what those plants will need. It will make it a much more enjoyable process to see the landscaping mature over the years.
--Tim.
Go to the All About Fruit Show next weekend and taste the fruit. There is an information table where HOS volunteers can answer your questions and give you advice. If the fruit you are considering needs special pollination (apples?) ask for help choosing the varieties.
I am a landscape designer with experience incorporating edibles into ornamental landscapes. I’m not an expert on fruiting trees and shrubs, however I do have a lot of experience working with them both in clients gardens and in my own. I would be happy to consult with you and/or your designer.
Here are my criteria for choosing edible plants to incorporate into a landscape:
Is the plant attractive? And if not do I have a suitable out of the way spot for it to grow?
Will I eat it? How much of it can I eat?
Will I be able to maintain it? (pruning, watering, spraying, etc.)
Is it worth growing? (is the fruit readily available at farmers markets or grocery stores?)
Will it fit into my time schedule? (will I be on an extended vacation when it needs to be harvested?)
Is it hardy and the appropriate plant for my growing conditions?
I hope this helps. If you want to learn more about working with me feel free to send me an email: sarah at thegardensmith dot com
-Sarah
If I understood well you want an ornamental tree, that fruits without to many cares ?! Am I right?
For the Ornamental it's a matter of views, normally Pear and Apple are not considered very beautiful plants...
As both ornamental and fruit trees I would advices (USDA 7 or warmer):
- Olives (Normally not self-fertile, plant more plants or one self-fertile)
- Figs
- Pomegranate
- Kiwi and American Grape (If you want a climbing plant)
- Asimina triloba (I really like their long leaves)
- Loquat
- Persimmon
- Feijoa and Strawberry Tree...it might not have a delicious fruit, but their fruits are particular and need to be tried...very good for making jam.
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My impression is that Merilee was looking for a professional landscape designer who also has experience and knowledge to combine the aesthetic and practical elements of creating and maintaining a landscape along with what is needed to grow good fruit in a complementary manner.
But maybe the pointers are helpful too?
Delvi, the plants you list are attractive. Loquat and Pomegranate, while able to survive here near Portland, are unlikely to produce fruit.
I think Feijoa are delicious.
Is Merilee still with us? I haven't seen any responses from her. I know that we'd each like to help her but it's a bit difficult without having a more accurate idea of the proposed planting area and the types of fruiting plants that are desired.
I think that step #1 is to decide what your favorite fruits are that you want to grow, harvest, and eat, and then winnow out those that can't be grown locally just because of climatic factors. If you don't have particular favorites, then opt for those that are tasty, disease-resistant varieties and are adaptable to the local climate and soil.
I spent my childhood in southern Brazil near the Tropic of Capricorn and I would LOVE to have mangoes, guavas, chocolate persimmons, cherimoyas, jaboticabas, and other "exotic" fruits thriving and fruiting in my backyard; however, I'm not there, and these culinary delights can't be grown here in southwest Washington state. Nevertheless, I also love apples and pears and plums, and blueberries.... One adapts.
Merilee -- If you check back in with us, give us a bit more information so that we can help you. We're certainly game to help. There are always tasty things that can be grown locally. If there weren't, HOS wouldn't exist.
--Tim.
I am not Merilee, but i have some questions about this topic. I live in Vancouver, right in town. My lot is just over a tenth of an acre, and I have started researching dwarf fruit trees. I have never worked with fruit before (though I did just sign up with Urban Abundance here) I have been getting my fruit from the local farmer's market, but their fruit all comes from Hood River or Yakima, I met up with Tonya down at the Arboretum, and she's the one who told me about the forum. What are the easiest/ most forgiving trees? Eventually, I would love a small scale orchard, limited only by my space. Apples, pears, plums, cherries, peaches are all familiar to me, and I am intrigued by Asimina triloba, Loquat, Persimmon, Feijoa, and Strawberry Tree. Lastly, I am part Greek, so growing my own olives would be amazing! Thanks!
tandone,
Welcome to the forum! I'll try to remember to give Tonia some praise for pointing people to the forum next I see her.
Early ripening persimmon and figs are among the most easiest and most forgiving. Pawpaws probably are too once established, but they are slow growing and require shade when very young. They also need two to make fruit whereas persimmons and figs are self-fruitful.
Apples may be the easiest to fit in a very small space, with all the choices of rootstocks, with columnar varieties and/or espalier. But they will require more care to get good fruit than the ones listed above.
Loquat will probably survive fine but seldom fruit. I don't believe Strawberry tree to be purported to have fruit worth eating. Stone fruit (plums, cherries, peaches) can have a hard time with our climate. Plums are probably the most likely to get good fruit of those with minimal care, and peaches the least.
Definitely! She was super helpful and steered me towards a local nursery as well. Don't figs tend to get pretty big? I know that I just missed the fruit show, and I am kicking myself for it. I could have seen and tasted so much! I do really like the espalier idea, especially where space is a concern. Aside from espalier, I would also like to create a multi level mini forest on the west side of my house, to help reduce energy costs. I remember that she told me to plant trees at least 4' away from the house. Should I also bury a root barrier to protect my foundation? My eventual goal is a permaculture garden, right here in town. To clarify my earlier post, I am in WA, not BC. I also found and applied to join Urban Abundance here on the other side of the river. Between help from the forum and volunteering with them, I think that I am well on my way. (Even if the journey has just started)
Hi Tandone,
Welcome to the HOS forum. I agree with what Jafar said. With a limited garden, I would focus on two things: what you like to eat, and what would grow easily. You can grow jujubes and chestnuts here, but I have personally decided that they just dont' taste that great. Also, think about what could be fairly small. If you like figs, you can keep them pruned to a small size, but with .10 acre, you need to focus. Try as many fruits as you can. Feijoa is very easy care, but you'll probably want two and to hand pollinate. I love Himalayan Honeysuckle, goumi, Autumn olive, American persimmons, pie cherries, American labrusca grapes, and Honey berry, but not everyone does. Apples and pears on espalier are great for small spaces. Olives can definitely be grown here in fast draining soil. The question is, are you trying to grow them for olives, oil, or the nutritious properties of the leaves? Quince and Asian Pear are extremely productive, but not the easiest care of all fruits here. YOur choices are numerous.
John S
PDX OR
Thanks John. Once I am independently wealthy and have acres, I can afford trees that may or may not work up here. To be honest, I had no idea that olives would work here. I would like all of the above for olives, though I imagine they would be different species. Fresh olive oil though...... Anyways, any books or other resources that you may recommend on espalier? Nothing like a living fence that fruits! Is anyone here familiar with Friends of Trees? And my last question, for now at least. Is it too late to get trees in the ground this year? I sure hope not!
Now is a great time to plant hardy fruit trees. Get them in the ground so they're ready to take off in the spring.
Friends of Trees is a great organization, although they lean toward ornamentals rather than having lots of experienced orchardists.
I don't know a good book for espalier, sorry.
John S
PDX OR
Dear interested parties; my partner and I are in the early stages of our ecological design and nursery business. I've been foodscaping our place for 5 years now. We are scaling up this winter/spring and if you are interested in planting out a landscape, we can help with design/installation or propagation of plants.
You can see some of our work at https://fruitmongers.wordpress.com/
We will be adding a video tour of our site soon so curious parties can see what we're all about.
Good to know! I'm sure I can find a good book or two. I actually got two pears in the ground, along with a Siberian pea shrub, a pineapple guava, a banana tree, and another blueberry, I went a little crazy at the nursery, but great deals! I'll need to trim a tree that was already on my property, to make sure the new guys have plenty of room. They're about ten feet off the house, and both are dwarf varieties. Should I worry about a root barrier, or am I all right with that distance?
And is it worth it to track down a dwarf with multiple varieties on the same trunk? I have heard about them, but not seen one, outside of a book. Thanks to everyone on the forum who has helped out! My future orchard thanks you much as well.
There is a lot of instructional material out there for the DIY types. I am sure your landscape designers will do a good job, but they do charge for their time, just as you and I would. Here are some good references for starting out if you want to canvas landscape designs and different plants. Some will not be PNW specific, so addaptation may be required:
For olives in Oregon, check out these folks. I picked up some trees from them in 2014 that are still doing well. In past winter snow storms, they also listed relative hardiness of the varieties they grow.
Those are some excellent sources.
I think in general, someone who works more than 60 hours a week and makes more than $60 K will be more likely to hire someone, and someone who works less than 30 hours a week and makes less than $30 K won't.
The person with no time can't even read books or do too many experiments but would like to.
I used to be one of the former people.
Now I'm one of the latter people.
Most Americans are in between the two.
John S
PDX OR
Thanks Jim! Those are pretty excellent resources. For time and money, I fall right in the middle. I ve been thinking about getting a consultation, if it wouldn't break my bank, I would love to do it all solo, but seeing as my time and money aren't infinite, a designer could save me both in the long run. Has anyone here ever had a designer out, or experience with design?
Tandone,
That sounds to me like a very small area. You can get away with choosing asian pears grafted to quince rootstocks which end up a third the height compared to regular pears on quince. I think the very first time I heard that being accomplished was Ed Fackler about 30 years ago. My one that I tried at 20 years of age is 4.5 feet tall with no more tip growth. It is productive too. So the only reason Ed never sold any is because the quince suckers from the base of the asian pear. Mine is planted in the ground.
Another idea is one about growing small miniature peaches;
http://forums.homeorchardsocie.....ge-2/#p631
I think lots of us have tips about small fruit trees on the old forums too. For example John S had discussed growing apple on flowering quince and pears on aronia bush before. There is a link at the top right to the older server
Idyllwild
jafar
Marsha H
Viron
John S
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