

2:23 pm

March 25, 2015

@John. I have yet to bud anything in the summer and have it rest through the next season and still survive. Not with stone fruits. Yes once with apple. I am very familiar with the steps of waiting until spring to force the bud by removing the topical portion come spring but come spring the stone fruit buds end up dried.
I will never try summer budding around here again. It's also out of the question for me in Alaska as well due to lengthy winters and the same zero success come spring. Then as far as I'm concerned summer budding guidance is for the nursery trade in California conditions only.
So when you say bud in August, but what's your actual experiences?
7:26 pm

Moderators
March 16, 2015

I have budded many trees that way. Exclusively that way. Jerry Shroyer taught me to bud and that's what he always said. I ended up teaching the budding classes after Jerry died and no one ever thought that was a bad idea.
I don't have as high a percentage with budding as I do with w and tongue grafting.
I also bud in September. They need to be watered beforehand. If they are dry, it won't work. If they're juicy enough, you hear a snap when you break through the bark.
Jekahrs: rooting hormone is for putting cuttings into the ground to make them grow into plants by growing roots. It's not for grafting.
JOhn S
PDX OR
5:28 am
June 21, 2015

John S said
August is usually a good time to bud, Bud.Great post Dubyadee. Notching is a fascinating practice. How or why it works? I don't know.
John S
PDX OR
John, I have never trued notching, until now. I am trying to lower the branching on a young but too high branching apple tree. I don't know if it will work.
My understanding is that growth tips of trees produce plant hormones, auxins, that flow back down the tree. Those auxins inhibit growth of buds. If you cut off the top, then no inhibiting auxins flow down and dormant buds awaken and grow. Similarly, if you notch above a viable but dormant bud, that interrupts the downward flow of auxin, so the bud awakens and grows.
If this image link works, here is the notch I did the other day. If it works, I can remove a higher branch after apple season, to lower the crown. That will be a two or three year process.
5:32 am
June 21, 2015

8:15 am

October 1, 2020

5:03 pm

Moderators
March 16, 2015

7:13 pm

March 25, 2015

The original question is certainly looking for more feedback. I also checked some more and the nursery craft has been budding all the stone fruits for the months August and September. If somebody has a good memory the way I do and knows then anybody can answer as long as it's local conditions, in which case Jafar would be a good one.
Stone fruit buds for me: Tried summer budding 'honey babe' miniature peach per book for a year or two which failed. Tried same using the current season's push in June budding the year after and it worked. Ever since I have only summer budded apple around here twice and each time it worked. One of which is how I first managed to figure out at times that apples work on pears. So I never doubted that the overwintering of pome fruit buds to live outside in a state of dormancy.
All of this was done in the slip. This miniature peach budding goes back when I was not well versed in protecting peaches from PNW conditions, which back then could have been part of the problem.
Then there is also my past cases of cherry buds that fail every summer through the winter. The latest case is 2020-2021 (now). They were covered for rain. X-pugetensis onto prunus mahaleb and buds not pushing any when the rootstock buds are. My p mahaleb stock is already hosting stick grafts of the same species so the issue of relationship isn't an issue.
I don't ever have prunus issues using the active budding method in May or June so it's unimportant to me as much any more but I still like to compare.
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