Eric, you can get it on Amazon but that brand is very expensive.  There are some other brands there too.

What type of grafting are you doing?  Would a wrap method work for you?  I do a lot of whip-and-tongue with pencil-diameter or half that.  I use a method that involves cutting approx 3/4" wide strips from ziplick freezer bags.  I wrap very firmly and tight, so the cut surfaces are firmly touching.  Last year I had 10 of 11 apple grafts take, 3 of 3 plums, 4 of 4 quince take, using that method.  Only 1 of 4 kiwi took.

I can post more detail if that is helpful.

Just in case, here is some peach I did this week.

Then wrapped with zip lock bag strips.  This is as tight and smooth as I can do without breaking the strip.

Then I wrap the top with parafilm or thinner plastic strips to prevent dehydration.

If that is helpful, or interested, I can give more detail.  Every grafter has their own way, and I don't know if this is for you.  It is much cheaper than a gallon of pruning seal (free - Im re-using the plastic bags).

Thanks.

The reason I use the zip lock freezer bag plastic strips, is I can stretch it tighter than I can parafilm, and apply uniform pressure across the entire graft union.  The parafilm has a breakage point with less tight binding, compared to the plastic.  So, I use the plastic strips for binding the graft union together.  First, I tie the plastic around the graft, lower than the graft itself.  Then I wind it tightly to up a little above the top of the graft, then wind it back down to below the graft to the knot, and tie again.  That binds the graft over a wide area, so it doesn't girdle the graft.

The second part I do with the parafilm.  I stretch the parafilm over the exposed top cut, wind it down, then again up and stretch it over the top.

This is probably a lot more effort than the commercial people do.  They don't have the time, but I like the result and the materials are free.

I wish I could show you in person but I am in self quarantine right now and am over 60, which in WA means I have to isolate anyway.  I'm not good at explaining but I'm pretty good at showing.

I suspect it would be fine to use the sprayable sealer.  I hope others chime in.  I have thought about using it, but have not.

One disadvantage is the plastic needs to be cut off when the graft has fully healed.  I do that when there is about a foot of growth.  To be honest, I've forgotten a couple and discovered them the next winter.  The stem is a bit constricted by binding it so long, but they seem to grow fine anyway if I cut it off then.  Spray, of course, doesn't need to be cut off.

Apple is very forgiving.  I think I've done about 25 apple grafts and only a couple didn't take. 

I found a couple more photos from previous years.

This is what I do first with the plastic strip, tie it below the graft.

Then I flatten the strip, wind tightly until it's wound above the graft, then wind back down and tie the strip at the same knot as before.  I pull it quite tight.  This plastic has a "give" point, where it tears.  It takes a little practice to know just how tight you can make it.

Then use less sturdy wrap such as parafilm or thinner plastic for the top, to prevent dehydration.  That's not as tightly bound as the graft winding.  I think that's where you could use tree-kote or something similar just as well.

This is a different apple, but still the same method, at two months later.

I hope that's helpful Eric

I've seen people use stretchy electrical tape on cleft grafts.  I haven't done it so I can't give experience on that.

Eric, thanks for your response.

My dad was also handy with gardening, woodworking, making stuff, and I learned a lot from him.  Being handy connects me to his memory, although he didn't graft.  He would be interested if I could have showed him, and proud that I can do it.

If you like tools, some people like the Zenport grafting tool.  I like being able to use a knife, and take some pride in that.  Plus I don't make enough grafts to justify buying that expensive tool. I  learned at the HOS grafting class maybe seven years ago.  I learned using the plastic strips via the internet.

As for peaches, I have tried many varieties.  They mostly fail to thrive, or die due to peach leaf curl.  I do not like to spray.  This year I sprayed with copper oil spray anyway.  Of the ones I have tried, Oregon Curl Free has been the most resistant to leaf curl.  The peaches were small but delicious.  My OCF peach tree died of canker.  A seedling from that tree is five years old, so far almost no leaf curl, maybe five leaves affected last year.  Peach is harder for me to graft, but I want to reproduce that tree so bought some Lovell rootstock and giving it a try this year.  Peaches would make for  whole topic on their own, very worthwhile I think.  I don't know why I think peach is harder to graft, plums and cherries are easy so maybe I haven't tried enough.

Hey folks,

I really like Doc Farwell's for grafting.  It's what I use.  After seeing ericwalls' posting a couple of days ago, I immediately googled Doc Farwell's to see what was available.  I was very surprised to see that the smallest size available was the 1 gallon size.  Perhaps some 18 years ago, the size that I was able to acquire was probably an Imperial British "cup".  At that time it was a light yellow.  The next time that I needed to acquire more, I couldn't get anything other than a "pint" (half quart).  This time it was a very light green.  The stuff goes a long way, (so it's what I still use.)  Helpful hint:  The first time that you open the container, use your finger to rub a fine layer of vaseline onto the top and threads of the plastic jar, so that the top can be screwed back on and still removed without getting "glued shut"...

There is either an incredibly high demand for the product (--no doubt from the big commercial growers), or the manufacturers have found that there just isn't sufficient demand for the smaller sizes to make it worth their while.  Gotta have amateur grafters active enough to make it worth their while to sell it in smaller (--more rational--) quantities.  

My supply should last for some years more, but if I run out... I'll not be happy about having to purchase a gol'dang gallon!

Reinettes

I have been using this storage technique lifted from others: a plastic bag, or remnant of one, laid flat, large enough to cover the opening and the screw threads entirely. Screw your cap on as usual, using that membrane as gasket. Disassembly has been easily accomplished even with some drips and dribbles of DF not quite wiped away and worse... before closing.   Not maybe quite as tidy, but quite effective.

sweepbjames said
I have been using this storage technique lifted from others: a plastic bag, or remnant of one, laid flat, large enough to cover the opening and the screw threads entirely. Screw your cap on as usual, using that membrane as gasket. Disassembly has been easily accomplished even with some drips and dribbles of DF not quite wiped away and worse... before closing.   Not maybe quite as tidy, but quite effective.  

Sweep's idea certainly makes sense.  Wish I'd thought of it, given that we have a roll of Saran Wrap (R) sitting in a drawer that we never use.  Desperation + Panic = Anything that might successfully do the job.  Perhaps combining various techniques all together to make a paranoic "Neverfail" ritual seal of the seal at the end of grafting-time, before putting the it away until bud-grafting time in the summer.    

Whether candles, incense, and thoughtful, directed, optimistic chanting will also help... I don't know.  However, I'm all for anything and everything that will lead to Doc Farwell being readily available at beck and call for when he's needed.  When you have scionwood and rootstocks ready to be operated-on, you just gotta have the Doc ready to go too. 🙂

Reinettes

Pugs said        The bottle/jar of the green stuff I bought, well, I can't open it.  Seems it is already glued shut.  Any ideas on how to open it?  

A Strap wrench and extra pair of hands. Tough with the six foot advisory though...