1) Actually, lots of branches are far better than too few. I believe a “Whip,” in this case, would have no branches, being the one year old growth of a newly grafted rootsock. If it has branches, it’s at least two years old. By “heading” the tree, I envision removing everything above where you want the highest lateral or ‘scaffold’ limbs forming. Leaving 4 or 5 (apparently already formed) ‘new branches’ to become the trees ‘main branches,’ you may want to remove altogether ‘major competition’ from other well formed potential branches. Leave the small/weak shoots for bark shading.

2) I’ve never nicked or notched for limb production… If you’ve got a two to three year old tree you likely won’t see the latent buds you desire. Keep in mind, to initiate growth from the trunk it will need adequate sunshine to feed the desired limbs. Nicking the trunk on the north side will likely leave only a scar.

When planting a new tree I aim the best limbs North, that allows and encourages future limb formation on the southern or sunny side. Some like to Bud a new ‘branch’ to the trunk; if that’s not done within the first or second year, limb production above will generally shade it out as well. Even plugging in a scion with a bark graft on an established tree doesn’t work under much of a canopy – that I’ve done.

3) (I did ask for this…) Good question, and it depends if you’re trying to establish a fig tree, or clump. After losing entire fig trees, and getting to know the Fig Queen, Helen Webb of Yamhill, now deceased, I’ve since allowed mine to ‘clump.’ Clumping gives them far greater chances of surviving extreme cold, and to manage them you simply remove the oldest and largest ‘limbs’ – all emanating straight up from the roots – allowing for a constant rotation of new growth. My shoots generally grow for a couple of years; produce for 3 or 4, then are removed to allow more of the same. I rarely remove new shoots from their base – remember, they’re on their own roots - so they’re always true – and those will become producing ‘uprights’ in turn.

I do head and thin my ‘fig clumps.’ Does ‘Fig Fans,’ or Fig Bouquets sound better than ‘clumps’ Generally I thin them back to the branch they sprouted; meaning, the limbs that eventually form on the uprights. Fig stems are often hollow, so heading them leaves an opportunity for decay, removing the stem to its source leaves a clean wound.

I recommend against ‘Fig trees,’ or should I say, Figs pruned as trees. They’re difficult to manage and as mentioned, vulnerable to total loss with deep freezes. You’d always get shoots from the roots, but that could take 3 years to produce a half-decent crop. I looked over a botched pruning job on a fig tree last year… felt sorry for the owners, “He said he knew what he was doing…” If eliminating their crop was his intention – he did a great job!

Fig training and pruning in the Pacific NW, or at the northern edge of their range is a subject in serious need of coverage. I'm questioned often about them, but brought that on myself by starting and passing out scores of them over the last decade. – another note on leaving them as upright limbs, more resembling “Hazel” or Filbert ‘clumps,’ is the ease of harvesting them. This was Helen’s trick! You circle them on a summer morning, spot your target - then hand over hand ‘walk the stock’ out and down to you. They must be related to Rubber trees as they bend wonderfully. No ladder necessary!

Helen had a yearly clientele out for Portland; she’d store fresh picked figs in her ‘frost included’ refrigerator, call the person/s who’s favorites were ripe ...and spend the evening visiting with them in her truly magical orchard in the hills west of Yamhill, Oregon.

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[quote="jadeforrest":17i18s6g]Figs ARE related to rubber trees, I believe. As are mulberries.[/quote:17i18s6g]

Thank you! I wonder how closely related they are to latex trees..? Fig sap is very unusual, so bitter it keeps deer and bugs away. There must be an industrial use in there somewhere

You’re welcome, hope I’ve helped. Actually, the figs do fine with heading. My concern was having you lose even one of your ‘top buds’ when heading back the whip to form a ‘tree.’ Any dieback would mean the loss of an eventual branch or two…

When simply pruning them for length and size it’s no big deal to lose some buds. Most winters they’ll have some dieback… It will be interesting to see what December’s extreme cold did… But I generally head them back to the branch from which they sprouted… though not possible with a whip.

If you go for a fig and want a ‘tree,’ just let it sit tight until spring’s sprung, then remove the top; less chance for decay or infection …though I’d let them shoot straight up -- and send up all the root suckers they’d like

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…a question of my own to anyone familiar with “Filberts.” Passing some today, I noticed the ‘clumping’ effect described above. But they appear to be sending shoots from their roots.

Aren’t Filberts (or Hazels) grafted? And wouldn’t those shoots (being allowed to compete with productive cultivar growth) be rootstock – thus unproductive? …seen a recent ad for an experienced filbert pruner ...and briefly considered it… but I’d better get this puzzle figured out first. Won’t hold my breath for an answer, but ‘enquiring minds’ need to know