
I picked up some sweet cherry scion wood at the exchange and purchased some Krymsk 6 rootstock. The rootstock is beginning to leaf out (1/8 to 1/4 inch green). The scion wood has little if any sufficient bud swell. I have been reading that the newly grafted trees are best kept at 70 degrees to promote union. I have an unheated greenhouse that, given any daytime sun, easily reaches 70 to 90 degrees but then cools off at night. Now the questions.
1. Should I graft now or wait for a better chance of warmer weather?
2. Considering the differing dormant status of the scion wood and rootstock, should I do whip and tongue now or wait for Jul/Aug. and T-bud. If I wait till Jul/Aug and refrigerate the scion wood, will it still be viable? Other things being equal, I would rather have the additional year of growth that T-bud would lose.
3. I plan on using stretchy black electrical tape to hold and seal the graft, should I also use Farswells just at the top of the wrap?
4. I have a trigger/slide wood clamp with semi-hard vinyl pads that does not exert any great amount of pressure (Home Depot type). Has anyone used this as a vise to hold the wood for cutting?
5. I also need to graft some plum scions to planted trees which are just showing some white on the buds. Graft now or wait for warmer weather?
Many thanks for any/all comments

1. With a scion coming out of dormancy it shouldn’t need additional heat… Some do, but it appears to be unnecessary. And if there’s a chance of it hitting 90, I wouldn’t consider sticking a new graft in that greenhouse. I’d make the graft now and allow it to emerge from dormancy along with everything else, preferably in its permanent hole. I’ve heard ‘stone fruit’ are best grafted early, that would include cherry.
2. I’d whip & tongue graft now. The buds for ‘Budding’ are taken fresh. These scions would not keep, nor work, as they’re not ‘slipping’ from the ‘wood’ and could not be cleanly applied to a growing stock. You’d have to acquire a fresh ‘bud stick’ from whatever variety you want at the time you Bud grafted. W&T Grafting now would allow you to make a Bud graft onto the rootstock if this scion doesn’t take, if it does take - you’ve an extra season of growth.
3. If using Electrician’s tape you shouldn’t need extra protection… but it wouldn’t hurt as you’d have to remove both the tape and whatever coating to keep from constricting the growth (by slicing straight down through the tape after the graft is growing well and letting the tape/sealant ‘slough off’ naturally). If you don’t need an expensive jar of Doc’s you might just dab some Elmer’s glue on the tip of the scion, to keep it from drying out. Otherwise, I wouldn’t worry if you carefully wrap to seal both top and bottom with the black tape. Some folks use masking tape; in that case I’d recommend a coating of Doc Farwell’s over it.
4. I’d be very careful not to damage the bark on either the scion or rootstock and do my ‘holding’ by hand. You’re not wood working, just going for two ‘matching’ angles with as few cuts as necessary. Keep them level so their bark lines up on one side – what happens on the other side doesn’t matter. Also, make sure the scion doesn’t ‘drift’ away from that edge when you’re wrapping … and be careful with knifes.
5. If you’ve got dormant scions you can graft anytime in the next couple of months. I’m liking Bark grafts more and more …so tend to wait until the bark ‘slips’ to make them; which is in a month or so. If you’re doing a ‘dormant’ Cleft graft for example, now’s just fine – as mentioned, it’s suggested to graft stone fruit sooner than others in the dormant season… I think that’s suggested due to their ‘over-sapping’ the scions as they’re first to send it up …but with yours already sending… I wouldn’t worry either way. – and if anyone else suggests different – go with it, just let us know the details " title="Wink" />
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