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spray schedule
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steve kelly
2 Posts
(Offline)
1
May 3, 2011 - 6:40 pm

Hey all

I have some old apple and pear trees and get confused on what to spray when. I want to only go organic and I get the oil /sulpher or copper in the winter but after that I don't know what to do when. Does someone have a basic spray schedule for the Willamette Valley area in Oregon?

Also who has had success using surround? Could I just do that after petal fall and not do the other sprays.

thanks
steve

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Viron
1409 Posts
(Offline)
2
May 4, 2011 - 6:35 pm

Hey Steve, good dormant spray program and good question ~ and you’d think there’d be a “basic spray schedule for the Willamette Valley,” wouldn’t you..? But that might be a better question or reason to stop by a State Extension Service Office (if they’re still funded..) to pick up a brochure – and go from there. We’ve a great group here …but have all likely witnessed some of the near knock-down-drag-out ‘debates’ regarding this very question …and I don’t know if anyone’s willing to start another.

Your winter schedule is Organic, but when it comes to killing the multitude of pests that can infect fruit trees during the growing season… opinions change dramatically – running the gambit from old-school folks like my Dad, who doesn’t post but thinks nothing of hosing-down a fruit tree with the most toxic pesticide he can get his hands on … he takes pride in ‘garage sale finds’ where he’ll pick up (for next to nothing) a chemical pesticide that’s been banned for a decade or two :roll:

And me, I'll just grind the bulk of my apples and pears into juice and deal with them in that form … and no complaints … it’s “Organic!” So I don’t know what to say … other than don’t hold your breath… and believe me, there’s some mighty talented and experienced people likely holding their tongues at this moment – and I respect them all. Maybe you’d be open to them simply contacting you ‘off board?’ – sending you a direct e-mail answer. As cool as it is to have ‘moderator status’ around here, it can be a real bear attempting to deescalate the ‘chemical vs. organic’ spray schedule debate… Good luck <img decoding=" title="Wink" />

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John S
PDX OR
3018 Posts
(Offline)
3
May 5, 2011 - 9:43 pm

Hi Steve,
As Viron says, there is not even one organic way or one synthetic way.

I spray with organic compost tea twice a year. June and September. That's it.

Some do IPM which is part of both organic and synthetic.

Some do synthetic only.

There have been some uncomfortable arguments here. Many are shy to start them again.

If you wanted to ask specifics, like about lime sulfur or something else, people could answer more specifically what they do.
John S
PDX OR

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steve kelly
2 Posts
(Offline)
4
May 17, 2011 - 9:43 pm

well I was not trying to bring up such a sensative subject. Just have a old apple tree that I am trying to bring back.It has been a few years of sulpher or copper and then spionsad or neen , some bagging but still not any good apples. I seem to read a lot of different informantion and thought if I followed a basic schedule then I could go from there.

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Oregon Woodsmoke
143 Posts
(Offline)
5
May 26, 2011 - 10:14 am

I don't have a good answer for you because the Coddling Moth kept whipping me and I gave up on the organic in order to actually get apples.

A lot of the organic growers bag their fruit. I know a few who have had good results spraying with Surround. As for schedule, I think you simply re-spray every time the rain washes the Surround off. Diligence is going to make a huge difference in whether it works or not.

You have to start spraying as soon as the blossoms drop (and the bees are finished), because the Coddling moth gets right after the fruit. Weather hasn't stopped them here where it is cold. Coddling Moth will also go after pears, although they seem to prefer the apples.

I even had half a dozen Coddling moth worms in my peaches last year. The peaches are organic, but I am going to start spraying those, too.

Don't forget to spray any crab apples that you have. You don't want the bugs to use them as a breeding ground.

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pompapah
1 Posts
(Offline)
6
June 7, 2011 - 8:29 am

I live in western Colorado and came here to ask the same question
Obviously, the answers will change with the climate

I'd suggest the Colo State Univ extension in Mesa County, Colorado for the entire west.

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ccooper
1 Posts
(Offline)
7
June 8, 2011 - 9:45 am

[quote="John S":3o7pa6nj]Hi Steve,
As Viron says, there is not even one organic way or one synthetic way.

I spray with organic compost tea twice a year. June and September. That's it.

Some do IPM which is part of both organic and synthetic.

Some do synthetic only.

There have been some uncomfortable arguments here. Many are shy to start them again.

If you wanted to ask specifics, like about lime sulfur or something else, people could answer more specifically what they do.
John S
PDX OR[/quote:3o7pa6nj]

Hi John, I spray with organic compost tea just once a year. Should I spray twice or more in a year? thanks

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lanamason
2 Posts
(Offline)
8
June 8, 2011 - 2:16 pm

hi steve, i use kaolin clay spray. it does the trick for me. im from portland oregon.

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lemmonsj
1 Posts
(Offline)
9
June 9, 2011 - 10:13 am

popmpapah, thanks for the Colorado State resource. Lot's of great info there.

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Chartlogic
1 Posts
(Offline)
10
June 9, 2011 - 12:11 pm

Couple of questions, I live in Utah and I have moved into a house that has had fruit trees in the back yard for over 25 years. They are 2 apple trees and 2 pair trees. I was wondering what is the best type of pesticide to use on these aging trees or should I just pull them up and replace with new? Also I was wondering when is the best time of year to spray. Before flowering begins? After? During? I know it is best to prune in the fall is this correct or should I prune spring and fall?

Please advise.

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John S
PDX OR
3018 Posts
(Offline)
11
June 9, 2011 - 9:51 pm

Hi Ccooper,
I guess it depends on your schedule and goals. It is probably better for your yard to spray more frequently. After the horrible dripping spring weather here in the PNW, I've got bad rust on my quince, shipova, and I may have some on my serviceberry. Had I known it was going to be a horrible spring, I would have sprayed during spring break. My schedule is unbelievably horrible in the spring, so I have to wait until about now. How much disease pressure do you have? I think that's a key. Also the longer you've been mulching, improving your soil, and gardening organically, the more your garden improves and the less you have to do. In a few years, I think my garden would not have been hit so hard by this spring. In my old house it was much more disease proof.
John S
PDX OR

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TheZman1
1 Posts
(Offline)
12
June 10, 2011 - 4:10 am

The Organic vs Chemical debate does not seem to have a clear winner. I had no idea it was such a touchy subject. I prefer not to use chemicals on my apple tree here in eastern Colorado. I have not heard of the organic compost tea so I will try to find some if available.

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pupu1
2 Posts
(Offline)
13
June 10, 2011 - 10:40 pm

I'd suggest the Colo State Univ extension in Mesa County, Colorado for the entire west.

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John S
PDX OR
3018 Posts
(Offline)
14
June 11, 2011 - 9:30 am

If you;'re not in a metro area, it is really hard to find compost tea. Making it yourself is probably the best option. Checking out the yahoo groups forum is a good way to do this.

There is a commercial product that is organic and works like compost tea. It's expensive, but you don't use very much. Does anyone remember the name? It starts with an S I think. I think it fakes out plant hormones by mimicking a bug attack? I don't really understand the science on that one. Maybe someone else will remember the name.
John S
PDX OR

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John S
PDX OR
3018 Posts
(Offline)
15
June 14, 2011 - 10:09 pm

I remember the name of the product. It's called "Serenade". Vern Nelson said it was the only thing that got rid of the rust on his Serviceberries. That's one of my main uses for fungal compost tea, along with quinces. I'm pretty sure it's available at most garden centers. I think it works like compost tea. It's much more expensive, but less work.
John S
PDX OR

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brunacon
2 Posts
(Offline)
16
June 30, 2011 - 7:21 pm

Yeah, Ive used it before and it works pretty good.

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Oregon Woodsmoke
143 Posts
(Offline)
17
July 5, 2011 - 7:40 pm

Chart logic, 25 year old apple and pear trees are mere babies. Prune them and start taking care of them and they will live another century.

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