We have a large very old standard plum tree in the garden. It has divided into four upright trunks. One of these has split almost in half for a couple of inches at a 'v' junction with a large horizontal branch (the v joint was weak with enclosed bark). I have reduced the foliage load on the horizontal branch and it now self supports. The vertical trunk seems to be bearing the weight above o.k. despite the split Can an expert advise what should I do for the best here, is the tree likely to recover from this damage if left alone, or would major cutting back be best?
If the wound is left open it will most certainly be subject to various diseases, fungi, and insects and nature may decide to decommission the tree. It is always recommended to mend a split trunk if to keep the tree from dying outright. Here are some general suggestions withoug having seen the problem:
1. Bind the wound temporarily if this can be done without cutting above the split. Use a combination of flexible materials, ( heavy latex bands, old inner tube can work, I have used duct-tape and copper wire fastened loosely for heavy splits). Coat the exterior of the 'splint' with Doc Falwell's tree compound. If binding with flexible material will not draw trhe split together, consider cutting the area just above the split and try binding again without the stress weight.
2. Do not spray anti-fungal in the wound. We have seen Captan inhibit cambium growth.
3. Do not fertilize until late Spring the following year. Too much nitrogen can be counter-productive on older trees when healing.
You hate to lose old friends but we have to accept that as we all age, we weaken, acquire diseases and things break. Winter snow and ice loads and winds naturally "prune" trees, sometimes catestrophically.
If the break is sufficiently severe and the tree's structure is such that it will have more breakage, that there is a real potential that any repair will only be temporary, or worse, be an entrance point for insects and fungi, you may want to replace it. That is a decision you have to make (and no governmental "death panel" will intervene).
HOWEVER, it seems to me (with my limited experience) that you might consider top-working the tree. If you collect scion and (next spring) graft it into the trunk below the main branching (into sound wood and all goes well), you will get the same fruits from the same root system. I don't know if, by cutting it off below the branches, sufficient shoot sprouting would occur to make grafting redundant. I hope someone can provide their wisdom and experience regarding the feasibility for these types of grafting/reworking procedures.
Philosophically/transcendenatally, I don't know if this means you will have the same tree as before (even though it will be genetically identical) -- perhaps someone with a more spiritual acuity can comment on this as well. It is something to ponder though.
“We have a large very old standard plum tree in the garden. It has divided into four upright trunks.â€
If your tree is large, and has four ‘up-right’ trunks, it can surely afford to ‘lose’ one. Make a careful (if ‘sloppy’) cut out beyond the break; then make a second ‘finishing cut’ near the trunk from which that branch emerged. Rot may be scraped out, it is not unusual for older trees to live many years with a ‘hollow’ rotted center, I’ve one of my own.
With such a mature tree it will instantly begin to fill the sunlight void left by that limb; I’ve watched that happen, too. With three remaining ‘up-right’ limbs you’ll have plenty of fruit as that hole fills.
If ‘water-sucker’ sprouts emerge near the severed limb, they would be excellent candidates for attaching an additional variety, or, training them (tying over) to fill the one-limb void.
If you decide to graft, keep in mind - the grafts will need plenty of sunlight to flourish. Lacking the necessary sun, likely from the remaining canopy, they will languish in the shade.
If this is a European plum (‘prune’ in my neck of the woods), I’m envious – I can’t get any to survive in this old ‘prune orchard’ area… If it’s an Asian (aka, Japanese) plum, they’re not as long-lived … but quick to grow. Please keep us posted.
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