Hi folks! what an exciting time of year!
OK, question 1.
I need some newtown spitzenburg scions - anyone have any?
2. when grafting, why is it important that the scion be dormant?
3. I just have been using black rubber electricians tape, that ok? I also used scotch tape.
4. I grafted a montmorency cherry onto a wild cherry - it seems to be doing ok after 2 weeks. AT what point can I assume him home free on the graft?
5. Can I graft asian pears on wild pear trees?
6. Where can I get a tutorial on bud grafting?
Thanks all!
Andrew in South Carolina
Hi Andrew:
I'm no expert, but here's my response:
1. no scion here. You can mail order them from a guy in this area who has practically every apple in existence. I don't remember his name, but he sells via snail mail, not the "internets"
2. I don't know.
3. That may be okay, but you have to be careful not to girdle the tree. It will want to expand, so you'll need to remove it or cut it or something.
4. I think for compatible types, you generally know after it's leafed out a bit?
5. I think so.
6. We have a budding workshop here in Portland in August. I'm not sure about in your area. You can probably read about it in a book on grafting, and practice until you get it right. I've never done it, but it doesn't look too hard.
My take on number 2. I am no expert, in fact I have success about 30% of my grafts. I think you want the scionwood as dormant as possible. When dormant, its requirement for liquid (sap?) is less. This means the rootstock needs to supply less liquid to the scion. This is good because the graft (connection) between the scion and rootstock is basically nothing more than 2 pieces of wood pushed together. If the scion wants alot of liquid immediately, it can't be supplied. The graft does start to heal almost immediately. Success for the graft depends on the healing happening and the rootstock being able to supply the 'need' for liquid to the scion. Basically you want the scionwood waking up and asking for more liquid as the graft heals and can supply that liquid.
You can graft scionood that is not dormant. But unless you get excellent cambium contact and support its harder to get success. I have also seen grafts fail because the scionwood is 'less' dormant than the rootstock. The scion is grafted before the rootstock has good flowing sap. If the scionwood leafs out and can't get the nourishment it needs, it will die.
Ok, now for a disclaimer. This is only my thinking based upon things I have read and my understanding of it. It makes sense to me but my brains need for nourishment is often more than my body can provide.
andrew-there are many on the web, google bud, graft, T-bud, tutorial
http://ucce.ucdavis.edu/files/.....2/6168.pdf
http://www.ext.nodak.edu/county/cass/ho ... ft/bud.htm
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/.....dding.html
I grafted Montmorency pie cherry onto a sand cherry bush and it seems to be taking as well. Sand cherry grows from cuttings so it seems I can have unlimited free pie cherries. This is one of my fantasies.
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