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Question about grafted apple tree
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geobuddy
2 Posts
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1
April 19, 2010 - 7:20 pm

I have a question about an apple tree that I gave as a gift to a friend about 5 years ago, and I am hoping someone can confirm what I think the answer is.

About 5 years ago, I took some scions from an apple tree that was cut down in our backyard out to the Arboretum and had 5 of them grafted onto P2 stock. One of the trees I gave to a friend, and last year she mentioned that it was only blooming on half the tree. I finally took a close look at it a few days ago because I wanted to take some more scions for grafting, and she mentioned (and I saw) how only one branch was bearing fruit. It was pretty well pruned back - so no scions were available. I took a look at the non-bearing branches and I think the leaves, etc. are slightly different. I think that what happened is that suckers took off from the root stock and the one 'branch' that bears flowers and a little fruit is the actual tree (truck). I mentioned this, but said I wanted to confirm. I think that she should lop off the non-flowering 'trunk' - it is about 1-2 inches in diameter - because it is a sucker?. Does this sound like appropriate advice? If they cut the sucker off, should they cover the wound with anything?

I appreciate your advice! Thank you...
p.s. I am sure you can tell that I am a novice - so please excuse any misuse of terms...

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PlumFun
495 Posts
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2
April 20, 2010 - 7:52 am

It is common for people to fail rub out sprouts from rootstock. Then the rootstock sprouts take over and they think they have a very vigorous, bushy tree.

I have made serious cuts like you are talking about. I am in a rainy climate too. So you could go ahead and plan your cut (couple of options here) and if it is wettish where you are, make provisions for rotting wood.

Once I cut a 2 incher, like you are considering, but left the stump of it about 4 or 5 inches tall. Let it dry out good over the summer, then before the fall rains came I slipped an aluminum soda can over it (took the top off the can). So far that is keeping the stump nice and dry, no woodrot happening yet.

Similar cut high up a tree, used a ceramic coffee cup to keep water off the wound. That was on a friends tree and the coffee cup was handy. Years later that coffee cup is still up there!

In another instance I made the stumping cut, let it dry real good over the summer, then painted the wound with roofing mastic, the thick black stuff. Seems to work okay. Although I would probably used Doc Farwell glue in the future. I do whatever I can to keep wood from contracting rot right away. Wood and water do not mix!

If you can make the cut on the tree perfectly vertical, due to the sucker coming straight out of the trunk, leave a little collar tissue and it will likely heal up, taking a couple of summers. The vertical cut would be less prone to rotting too, as the water doesn't just beat into the wound. Of course you could roof-patch over a dried out vertical wound too, just to keep it sanitary.

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PlumFun
495 Posts
(Offline)
3
April 20, 2010 - 7:57 am

I have also read where a guy made massive limb cuts that he did not want to rot. So every year or two he carefully paints the dry wood with some copper solution -- keeps the wood rotting beasties from growing. I think he had a huge wound that finally closed after 20 years. And the wood never rotted due to the copper treatments.

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jadeforrest
237 Posts
(Offline)
4
April 20, 2010 - 8:04 am

Maybe you can post a photo?

You could also graft a different variety there, and do a cleft or bark graft.

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geobuddy
2 Posts
(Offline)
5
April 28, 2010 - 5:24 pm

Thank you so much for your advice - I will be up at their house this Saturday, so will take a picture and post it then...

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