I really cut them back. I really opened up the canopy and cut off some major branches. I probably cut 40% of the trees away. My understanding is that there is a lot of energy stored in the roots. When the trees start growing, I suspect I am going to get a lot of suckers. How do I prevent this? If I cut them off as they develop, that won't use up much of the energy. Should I let them grow a bit before cutting them off to use up the energy? Ideas? Thanks
Greg,
Had you done that pruning in the summer it would not have allowed all the ‘excess’ nutrients to be stored. But if you’re like me, and disassembling a tree in the middle of the growing season just doesn’t seem right… you’ll pay the consequences of a gazillion watershoots!
The good thing is that your root system is still in excellent shape. My assumption is, with less nutrient input during the summer a portion of that root system may die… As is, you’ve only the excessive re-growth to contend with. That’s the problem I’d rather have.
I just roam the orchard, usually as/or after thinning, ‘hand plucking’ the developing watershoots. They’ll heal almost instantly and ‘I feel’ I’m being quite gentle on the tree. I’ll always miss some, especially the highest, but you can take them off later (like now) and, they appear to protect the tree and fruit from sunburn.
Keep in mind, ‘watershoots’ are great candidates for replacing limbs… There is far less emphasis (if any) placed on ‘training’ trees. Watershoots are also excellent candidates for simple splice or ‘whip & tongue’ grafts, or Budding…
I’m glad to know you did some serious thinning/pruning, not everyone can make ‘the big cuts.’ …but did you make them before, or after you ‘fine-pruned’ the entire tree 
They were my first cuts. 1 big cut saves 100 little cuts. I just looked at the trees decided how to get most of the limbs back out into the sun and how to keep the top from shading out the bottom and cut. I just need a new saw. This one is dull so I have a sore arm. Also, on one tree I used some big cuts to open up the tree to get light to the 'old farm gravenstein' scions that you had a couple years ago. They sure are growing well.
Excellent; usually it’s other people’s trees I have the problem of fine pruning first… until finally treating it as if it were mine – and making the big cuts. Saves hundreds alright!
The latest thing I’m pruning for is access, for either a ladder or self. A limb free corridor is very handy when pruning, spraying, thinning or harvesting.
Those new ‘turbo-cut’ three-sided pruning saws are so much better (or at least sharper) than the ‘two-sided’ saw I’ve recommended for years… I’ve quit recommending it. I’m told the new ones can’t be sharpened, but then I’ve never sharpened my two-way blades either. I did order a life-time supply of ‘my Corona 49’s,’ but may also snag another of those new-fangled rippers. One problem – they’re dangerous! Whereas my old saw would snag you – these new ones will cut you.
Glad to hear the old Grav’s pulling through! That’s another great thing about Gravensteins, they’re as vigorous as apple trees come. …and if you like to prune, a real treat 
If you are pruning a 'Standard' apple on seedling rootstock, do most of your work in the growing season, like August. I would only thin out strong suckers and watersprouts in the winter, and if you must make a few cuts, try to keep it around 10%. Of course you do have the problem of knocking off the apples as well, but this can double as some fruit thinning.
If you prune an M7 tree too severely in the winter, you will get a rank growth of basal shoots.
If the tree is old and in decline, it won't hurt to winter prune, and in fact that is when to prune a weak older tree.
Dwarfing rootstocks are a lot more forgiving of zealous winter pruning.
And if I had a Gravenstein on seedling roots, I'd soon have a stack of wonderful firewood. Apple makes a great slow burn.
“And if I had a Gravenstein on seedling roots, I'd soon have a stack of wonderful firewood. Apple makes a great slow burn.â€
...and it smells great... I’ve got an old-time Gravenstein, likely on seedling roots. Sure, its two days of pruning and a days worth of thinning, but is nearing ninety years of production. That production includes gallons of ‘it only’ apple juice and boxes of my truly favorite apple. The tree’s large and strong enough to support multiple grafts of Transparent and Summer Red. A triploid, it needs their help!
A relative once deemed it my “Signature Tree.†I have to agree, leaning nearly all its life, it was likely the first apple tree I climbed … and may well be my last. …But I love to prune, and though it’s a challenge, nobody complains come August! …and if I get lazy, the deer suspect they’ve found heaven 
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[quote="gkowen":1wobc3o6]I really cut them back. I really opened up the canopy and cut off some major branches. I probably cut 40% of the trees away. My understanding is that there is a lot of energy stored in the roots. When the trees start growing, I suspect I am going to get a lot of suckers. How do I prevent this? If I cut them off as they develop, that won't use up much of the energy. Should I let them grow a bit before cutting them off to use up the energy? Ideas? Thanks[/quote:1wobc3o6]
Root pruning can help balance the results of heavy pruning. Mark a circle half way between the trunk and drip line. Using a straight spade, punch it the full depth of the blade all the way around the tree. This will cut enough roots to reduce the vigor of the top. Works best with semi-dwarf and standard trees. Doing it with some dwarf rootstocks may weaken their anchorage and leave them vulnerable to tipping.
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