Peachykeen - and welcome to our Forum I was just asked, “How do you tell someone how to prune,” “Shouldn’t they watch you?” I said, ‘if they’ve a basic knowledge,’ as you apparently do, a lot can be described ...though nothing beats watching it done…

I’m not yet aware of your location, but in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, where our Society began, growing peaches is difficult due to our damp weather. I’ve gone through around 6 peach trees in 30 years, and have given up. I prune some neighboring trees, however, and trek to U-Pick orchards for my own.

You ask: “Does a heading cut on new growth cause feathering as the end dies or if cut right in front of the next bud give it the right stuff to seal the end of the branch properly?”

Every heading cut should be made “right in front of the next bud.” Not sure if you mean current growth, as in during the growing season, or when dormant, and ‘hardened off.’ But either way, it should be in front of a growth bud headed in the direction you’d like the limb to grow (usually down). Dieback can occur if extremely cold weather hits shortly after pruning, around here, that’s very rare.

I’d read it suggested to prune peach trees after they bloom, and have begun doing that on my neighbor’s two trees. But, that’s only 2 trees, not 30… It allows their cut ends to ‘seal & heal’ almost instantly, as ‘juice’ is already flowing so doesn't allow various infections to enter the end cut. It seems to be working well, though very tricky to ‘put off,’ then hit hard before the emerging leaves are damaged by material removal.

...I’m only hoping I’m ‘getting’ your following questions… so will attempt to answer them. Watershoots are worthless, other than for scion wood, which you’ve no need. Cut them off flush with the branch or limb they’ve gown from. Occasionally, I’ll literally tie over (with string) a ‘well placed’ watershoot to replace or create another limb; one year at a new angle and it will remain stationary.

The tip or ‘terminal bud’ on a shoot gives off a hormone that suppresses the growth of the buds ‘below,’ or closer to the tree. That allows for the wild unpruned ‘straight up’ habit of neglected fruit trees. Pruning (or removing) the terminal bud encourages the development and growth of the buds ‘below’ it, as they’ll each send out less vigorous shoots in various directions; a good thing! That’s one of the reasons to prune, to create a constant supply of what will become ‘fruiting’ wood as opposed to vegetative growth.

I’ve no experience with ‘bud thinning’ or ‘blossom thinning.’ Around here, snapping off buds would create yet another disease entry point, at least in my mind… Blossom thinning would depend on fruit set, which ‘around here’ is often spotty… I’d wait for an obvious fruit set, then hand thin. Home Orchardists can do this, it’s our hobby. Commercially… depends on how many trees.

“Another question would be split pits. Would it be the best to place a peach on a 45 versus underneath because of rainwater deposits followed by dry heat to allow better drainage off the stem?”

That one’s got me puzzled…

Split pits and earwigs - that I can relate to! Split pits are more likely a characteristic of the cultivar or variety than the result of orchard practices, from what I’ve experienced. And, as mentioned - they’re the best peaches! My assumption is they’re the ones that grew the fastest, or fullest, thus are the largest and richest - having literally bursted their seam! And Earwigs aren’t stupid ...and I’ve always considered it one of life’s thrills to have an earwig scamper from a warm sweet peach - people just have to accept that

I’ve heard the same with regard to cyanide in the seeds, so have avoided eating them, though tender as they are... Strange, aren’t Almond's the seed of a close relative of the Peach … yet no cyanide

You’ve obviously discovered the joy of Peaches and are apparently willing to spread it ...beautiful