Kiwi plants are the most sensitive to the level at which you plant them of any plant I've known. I didn't know this until Lorraine from OneGreenWorld told me. Then I realized why so many of my kiwis died or didn't do anything. I have two plants just like that and they never produce flowers-just leaves and growth. They were planted as plants with roots.

I have many kiwis that produce every year. What do they have in common? They were planted as cuttings. Then the kiwi can decide where it wants its roots to go. Never move them. I have arctic and Issai that produce from bought plants, but none of my others produce from bought plants. I dare you to take a cutting from your kiwis-right away. Slice a line along the part that goes into the soil so that roots can creep out. Water them this summer. I bet those plants will produce for you. Mine did.

My two cents,
John S
PDX OR

I’ll presume they’re ‘Fuzzy’ kiwi; my Hardy kiwi likely produced their second year... I’ve had my Fuzzies so long… I can’t remember how long it took them to flower and produce, but I suspect it was three years… with a crop that’s increased its production consistently ever since. I have a Saanichton Fuzzy kiwi female and it’s ‘generic’ fuzzy mate.

Have you been pruning or training them? How rich is your soil? Do they have full sun? Were they planted from cuttings or ‘store-bought?’ If ‘fuzzies,’ do you have Hayward or Saanichton?

From the Raintree Nursery website: “PRUNING: Kiwis require special training and pruning to produce good crops.” The “special training” I did was to extend long ‘runners’ across a heavy-duty trellis; allow the kiwi to produce laterals the following year; shorten those laterals some (mainly to fit said trellis); and I suspect the following year they flowered and fruited.

I’d suggest thinning them if you haven’t – fast! They need their pruning attention when the weather’s still cold, or they’ll “bleed” – seemingly to death! I’ve pruned several matted masses of neglected kiwi plants, lots of work – and – you really have to concentrate to keep from snipping a main feeder or a vine/limb you want to save. Once you develop a structure, gently tied to its trellis, you snip off any stray vines, which can be up to 20 feet in length! I’d say each year you easily remove two-thirds of the previous seasons growth. But for now, leave your ‘oldest’ wood, if it’s in a good location and has not been strangled by subsequent growth. ...Once a vine has done the ‘tendril thing’ - having wrapped itself around and nearly choked another vine – they’re both worthless and best removed.

I hope you’ve stayed on them, they’re definitely worth the effort. In fact, with 3 more boxes of fuzzy kiwi in a second refrigerator… I’ll be eating on them for another two months. Many a yard should devote its allocation of sun to fuzzy kiwi; their requirements are few in comparison to the tremendous crop of nutrient rich fruit they so consistently deliver, once established

Or being grafted. That's another way to ensure that male and female will be present. Arctic cannot pollinate the others because of bloom times, but hardy and fuzzy can pollinate each other. Grafting also is great for urban gardeners with limited space, or people who don't need 100's of kiwis.
John S
PDX OR