I have a friend who lives in a farm house in Verboort, Oregon and wants to plant a shade tree. He has asked for my suggestion. The tree would be planted in the existing location of a large rhododendron bush which he doesn't want anymore. The tree would be approximately 50 feet from the house with lots of space around it other than lawn. My friend is in his forties so would probably like the shade in his lifetime. How old should the tree be that you would suggest? He's not interested in a fruit bearing tree (sorry!).
In my opinion, your friend needs an adjustment so that he wants a premium apple tree growing there. The next people who live there may very well want such a fruit tree, and he could very well likely move before another 30 years go by. Not planting fruit trees is very short sighted. But that is all just my opinion!
I have read that Hudson Golden Gem apple is self pollinating, so he would not need two trees.
How old? I suspect that's the wrong question. Landscape trees are usually measured by the caliper inch - trunk diameter at I believe shoulder height. Plus, what I'm about to recommend grows a tap root, so it should be planted while quite young (you don't want the tap root chopped off to pot length in an older tree.)
I'd love to be able to recommend the Gary, or Oregon White Oak (another one with a tap root), but I planted one while I was still barely in my thirties, I'm 46 now, and it's not impressive nor throwing noticeable shade yet. We planted a red oak at the same time, and it grows fast, but it was pretty gangly for 7 of its first 8 years, and has only just started providing reasonable shade. My neighbor planted a scarlet oak a year or two after our red oak went in, and it is already an impressive tree - not gangly at all. (See "quercus coccinea" in OSU's plant site.) I'd recommend the scarlet oak - it's been a good looking tree since it graduated from being a mere sapling.
mh
Karen, any relation to Yamhill artist Susan Day..? There are multitudes of ‘shade trees’ and a good nursery could advise you better than me, even if you only read their tags… But I don’t see a problem with a large ‘apple tree.’ Our favorite yard / shade tree is a massive Gravenstein apple tree. Sure, it has apples (though very few last year), but all the more interesting to sit beneath and watch their development throughout the summer with family and friends. And about the time the sun begins ‘feeling good’ again, they’re ripe! Yes, there's pruning… but it’s an enjoyably hobby and a great way to sculpt the tree.
My suggestion would be a Gravenstein apple on ‘Standard Rootstock.’ Grav’s are fast growing, large, long-lived (ours is around 90 years old) and difficult to pollinate – meaning, if he didn’t want ‘apples’ (or very many of them), don’t buy / graft any pollinators for it. He’d end up with a great tree, easily filling that space, with the constant potential to produce apples whenever he, or the next owner provided pollination. ...Yet they always bloom like crazy!
I added both ‘Summer red’ and ‘Transparent’ apple grafts to my old Grav 15 years ago, when it was around 75 years old; so it’s never too late to add pollinators … as long as there are still grafters! The tricky part? Finding anyone crazy enough to have grafted a Gravenstein apple on ‘Standard’ rootstock!
The ‘Good news’ – he’s in Verboort! Just get to our “Fruit and Scion (Cuttings) Exchange" (or whatever we’re now calling it) in March – grab some free Gravenstein ‘wood’ from the container marked as such (too bad you didn’t get in on last years ancient Grav: viewtopic.php?t=555 … that would be a special tree to have, fruit or not… …Hummm we likely don’t have ‘Standard rootstock’ there (anyone know?); if not, ask for the most vigorous / least dwarfing rootstock they sell, then find the ‘custom grafting’ area and have one of us put them together for you/him. If you came to me (I expect to be there grafting) you wouldn’t have to explain (again) why you were putting a Grav on vigorous rootstock...
You may also be able to find such a combination from a mail order nursery - and a couple of years more advanced than the 8 inch tall ‘tree’ we’d hand to you… *Knowing this ‘suggestion’ may be far more involved than you or your friend care to pursue, I’m giving it with the idea others will read this and perhaps spark their desire for such an 'apple shade tree.' …At least my kids think it’s a great idea, “An apple tree in waiting!†--and what did you expect from apple fanatics?!
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-- Marsha -- I applaud your long-term-thinking planting a Gary oak (Ore. White oak). I live in “Oregon Oak Country,†and their stands are disappearing… Generally replaced with vineyards or Douglas fir. We’ve a Gary oak along side the house, actually built the house to dodge it. I remember ‘it’ as a youngster, when I was a kid; now 50, (me) it’s magnificent! So it ‘can happen.’
I recently found a Gary about 5 feet tall growing along the edge of the orchard / yard. I wonder how well they transplant..? It’s a fine specimen! …Guess I could remove everything around it (ouch); but my policy for the 25 years I’ve lived here is never to cut down a living oak – and I haven’t. Problem is, they’re quickly overgrown by the native fir and shaded to death. Poor things! I also find one or two year old ‘seedling’ oaks around the place … but another problem of mine - I’m treed out! A good thing!! No room for fruit, shade, or natives " title="Wink" />
No relation to Susan Day. Thanks for the information.
"Viron" said:
Karen, any relation to Yamhill artist Susan Day..? There are multitudes of ‘shade trees’ and a good nursery could advise you better than me, even if you only read their tags… But I don’t see a problem with a large ‘apple tree.’ Our favorite yard / shade tree is a massive Gravenstein apple tree. Sure, it has apples (though very few last year), but all the more interesting to sit beneath and watch their development throughout the summer with family and friends. And about the time the sun begins ‘feeling good’ again, they’re ripe! Yes, there's pruning… but it’s an enjoyably hobby and a great way to sculpt the tree.My suggestion would be a Gravenstein apple on ‘Standard Rootstock.’ Grav’s are fast growing, large, long-lived (ours is around 90 years old) and difficult to pollinate – meaning, if he didn’t want ‘apples’ (or very many of them), don’t buy / graft any pollinators for it. He’d end up with a great tree, easily filling that space, with the constant potential to produce apples whenever he, or the next owner provided pollination. ...Yet they always bloom like crazy!
I added both ‘Summer red’ and ‘Transparent’ apple grafts to my old Grav 15 years ago, when it was around 75 years old; so it’s never too late to add pollinators … as long as there are still grafters! The tricky part? Finding anyone crazy enough to have grafted a Gravenstein apple on ‘Standard’ rootstock!
The ‘Good news’ – he’s in Verboort! Just get to our “Fruit and Scion (Cuttings) Exchange" (or whatever we’re now calling it) in March – grab some free Gravenstein ‘wood’ from the container marked as such (too bad you didn’t get in on last years ancient Grav: viewtopic.php?t=555 … that would be a special tree to have, fruit or not… …Hummm we likely don’t have ‘Standard rootstock’ there (anyone know?); if not, ask for the most vigorous / least dwarfing rootstock they sell, then find the ‘custom grafting’ area and have one of us put them together for you/him. If you came to me (I expect to be there grafting) you wouldn’t have to explain (again) why you were putting a Grav on vigorous rootstock...
You may also be able to find such a combination from a mail order nursery - and a couple of years more advanced than the 8 inch tall ‘tree’ we’d hand to you… *Knowing this ‘suggestion’ may be far more involved than you or your friend care to pursue, I’m giving it with the idea others will read this and perhaps spark their desire for such an 'apple shade tree.' …At least my kids think it’s a great idea, “An apple tree in waiting!†--and what did you expect from apple fanatics?!
--------------------------------------------------------------
-- Marsha -- I applaud your long-term-thinking planting a Gary oak (Ore. White oak). I live in “Oregon Oak Country,†and their stands are disappearing… Generally replaced with vineyards or Douglas fir. We’ve a Gary oak along side the house, actually built the house to dodge it. I remember ‘it’ as a youngster, when I was a kid; now 50, (me) it’s magnificent! So it ‘can happen.’
I recently found a Gary about 5 feet tall growing along the edge of the orchard / yard. I wonder how well they transplant..? It’s a fine specimen! …Guess I could remove everything around it (ouch); but my policy for the 25 years I’ve lived here is never to cut down a living oak – and I haven’t. Problem is, they’re quickly overgrown by the native fir and shaded to death. Poor things! I also find one or two year old ‘seedling’ oaks around the place … but another problem of mine - I’m treed out! A good thing!! No room for fruit, shade, or natives
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