In Winter 2008-9 the HOS created an apple tree for me by grafting a Cox Orange Pippin onto a M26 root stock. Now two summers later, the tree is taller than I am and sprouting foot-long limbs near the top. Since this is the only tree I have room for, I would like to graft on a couple of additional varieties. Is this Fall the right time to do so? If so, what is the process (I've never grafted before) and where would I get the varieties? I want something that makes great sugar-free pies like Granny Smith, Cameo, and/or Braeburn. (Of course I only know varieties one can buy in the stores, but these do make great pies.)
A second issue is that I'm not sure if there are any other apple trees within a block or so of my SE Portland house, so I'm wondering if having three apples on one tree takes care of the pollination problem.
Thanks, Jack
Asks Jack: “Is this Fall the right time to do so?†Not really; a month ago would have been the best time to ‘Bud graft’ and I think it’s a bit late now. Maybe not, but close. I believe it’s fine for the ‘new bud’ to simply ‘nit’ with the base tree and be ‘ready to grow’ next Spring.
If your tree limbs are below head level, you could dormant graft (topwork) to those around March… but being unfamiliar with grafting, you could be sacrificing a limb in the process, as you lopped one off to replace it with the scion of a new cultivar. If that ‘scion’ grew, great – if not, the limb is lost…
So Budding would be your best bet. I’ve seen many a beginner succeed with budding as it’s simply placing one bud beneath the bark. If it takes, let it grow from the trunk or clip off the limb beyond it to allow it to become a new limb. …but as mentioned, it’s getting late… Actually – thinking while typing – why wouldn’t now work folks? I mean this weekend! If the desired variety could be found, it’s buds would definitely be mature; and if all it had to do was ‘nit’ -- seems we’ve plenty of time before the first freeze for that to happen…
So, Jack, you’d really have to do your homework fast! And “Yes†– one tree can provide the pollinators - and placing those on while it’s young would allow you to train and balance them, not allowing any one branch to become so dominate it shades out others. Once you determined which varieties would/should/could pollinate each other – you’d have to find them to Bud. Our organization has an Arboretum http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/arboretum/ ….we’d also put on a Budding Workshop last month to teach the technique you’re asking about – you’re a month late.
At the Arboretum you would likely be able to obtain a ‘Bud Stick’ from any of the healthy varieties (or ‘cultivars’) on hand. …or not, I don’t get over there that often and am not sure of the policies. But if anyone were there - it would be right about ‘now!’ - as in Today!
…otherwise, there’s always next year 
PS, about where are you in Southeast… my ol stomping grounds (no address, just roughly)?
Hi Jack,
If you wanted to study up and choose another variety, you could wait until late winter, which was one of the ideas that Viron mentioned. You could go to the All About Fruit Show next month, try several varieties to find one you liked, check to see if it blooms near Cox's Orange Pippin and was a non-triploid (good pollinator), take the grafting class in February, and whip and tongue graft the other variety into your tree right after.
This is what I would do if I were you.
John S
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