At the grafting classes (Feb. 21st) a discussion began over the control and/or eradication of Oregon Meadow Voles
http://gardening.wsu.edu/library/tree012/tree012.htm
SIGNS:
“In the Winter of 1988, these little animals were responsible for an unusual amount of damage in local apple orchards by feeding on the roots and girdling trunks. Meadow Voles will also tunnel through vegetable and flower gardens, feeding on juicy roots, tubers and bulbs - damage that is often blamed on our poor, insect-eating Moles! Voles will even use the mole's tunnels when making these raids!”
"How can you tell if you have a vole problem? Obvious signs include gnawed roots and root crops (note the small grooves left by the 2 large front teeth). In badly infested orchards, you can locate the dead trees during the dormant period by reaching out and giving them a wiggle. If they move very much, the entire root system is probably gone. In the growing season, damaged trees are leggy and thinly leafed with a reddish tinge to the foliage. If you pull the tree up, the underground part often looks like it was run through a pencil sharpener. Girdling of tree trunks extending to just above soil line (rabbits usually damage trunks and twigs higher up and leave larger tooth marks at 45° angles while Mountain Beavers generally clip the branches, leaving 2 inch stubs) and well-used tunnels through the soil and/or in the grass or thatch are other signs of infestation. Finally, voles often leave open, 1 inch holes in areas of heavy activity (moles always seal up their holes)."
Back in class - it was suggested we drop poison pellets down their holes, cheap stuff like ‘Just One Bite’ came to my mind - which I’d done. Ignoring the warning of my Brother that, “You’ll kill all your owls,” I went ahead and dropped 3 to 4 pellets down the hundreds of vole holes throughout my yard and orchard. The voles thinned out - but my owls were gone for five years ~ Tragic; I live in the deep woods among some of their last local habitat and I’m sure the cheap poison transferred directly to them, and likely any other natural predator lurking; not counting dogs and cats.
Sickened and depressed, the voles ran amuck! They killed a dozen massive and newly transplanted blueberry bushes - I didn’t know what was killing them stem-by-stem until I yanked a dead plant out to find its roots were gone. Pulling back the mulch - there were vole tunnels and runs throughout the area! I lost them all - a three year and thousand dollar caging project~
Discussing this with my brother’s organic mate (& HOS Member propagating and promoting fruit trees on Oregon’s Coast) she searched her organic gardening magazines until finding the following product, Quintox. As I was more than ready to declare war on these rodents, and smoke bombs, water and urine didn’t slow them; I did my homework. On Feb. 2nd of last year (08) I ordered a 5.5 pound plastic tub of Quintox 'Rat and Mouse Bait' for $37.90 (free shipping over $25). With an active ingredient of 0.075% Cholecalciferol (CAS #67-97-0) I applied it as I had the ‘cheap stuff,’ about 3 or 4 pellets per vole hole.
After a week or so there were no signs of increased activity, and after another week it was obvious something had gone drastically wrong with their world! -- I’m laughing hard 
" title="Laughing" /> Those little varmints were on the decline! Expecting to have missed several holes, I gave another application to any set that appeared active, having fresh chewed grass or runs near them. Same thing, as the population dwindled to a handful.
Pleased as punch, I’ve wanted to allow a full season to pass before giving this report. Not only did I not find entire plants of potato’s chewed on or hollowed out by voles, their activity in the orchard had ceased! I likely did three more follow-up applications through the summer and fall, but have done nothing this winter. And - they’re back! Not in large numbers, but several little communities just begging for attention and they’re going to get it - just like my blueberries got it! I’ve got about half of the 5.5 pounds left - and it’s not cheap; but neither are our fruit trees ~
I’d also placed beautifully designed (if I may say so myself) owl perches throughout the gardens and orchard; round sanded pegs of varying sizes located high for my owls (of various kinds) to monitor the yard but they apparently had little interest in these voles. And, I’ve watched these voles scurry across the grass in daylight; so they’re not only active at night!
Anyway, here’s the stuff; I notice the price has increased - but not by much. It actually took me a lot of time to locate it in this form and container size. I’m getting no kick-back from the company, Pro Pest Products (unless they feel compelled!), but their product worked, arrived on time, free shipping, apparently fresh, and they’re definitely a legit company to deal with; online or by phone - 1 800 476 3368.
So here’s a little product info and their link to what I bought and used:
Quintox Rat and Mouse Bait
"Quintox Rat and MouseBait: active ingredient, Choelcalciferol, known as Vitamin D3.
This offers a different biological approach to killing rodents.
Once a rodent eats Quintox, all feeding stops,
unlike anticoagulants where feeding continues.
The toxicant mobilizes calcium from the rodent's bones ,
producing hypercalcemia and heart failure.
It acts faster than anticoagulants."
http://store.doyourownpestcontrol.com/P ... _R200.html
The way the entire grafting class erupted with vole stories compelled me to speak up; I hope this works for you 
PS - the owls are back!
Viron, I have had terrible problems in my young orchard and garden generally: apple tree, large-ish eucaplytus, Japanese maples, currant bush, many,many roses where the roots were entirely eaten and the main trunk sharpened like a pencil. I have thought this was gopher damage (we have a lot up here on Bald Peak) where we have mole holes (no problem really), gopher mounds, runs, holes and open vole holes too. We trap the gophers and plant in cages now---but how do I distinguish vole damage underground from gopher damage?
So what makes this stuff safer for owls?
And what about cats? My cats occasionally bring me a vole.
I'm assuming I have voles. They're not moles or gophers, that I know for sure.
My cat drags in specimens that look alot like your picture.
They leave smallish, open holes scattered randomly about. With no sign of
excavated dirt. I sometimes wonder what they do with it?
I'd be very willing to spend a few bucks to get rid of them safely.
Kartini:
- but how do I distinguish vole damage underground from gopher damage? -- Likely by the proximity of their holes, or kick-out mounds. I’ve been so successful exterminating gophers I’m completely unfamiliar with their damage. But I’ve seen a lot of orchards in the area over-run by gophers! Around 20 times larger than meadow voles, I suspect gopher damage would be twenty times as fast, and perhaps as obvious?
I’ve come to look for the meadow vole holes, there’s no mound or kick out soil. They will use mole tunnels! Whereas moles are searching for meat, voles are after vegetation. I’d do my best to eliminate both (or should that be all three?) - though my means of gopher eradication is now considered an antique, of which are no longer available.
Tstoehr:
So what makes this stuff safer for owls?
And what about cats? - I'd be very willing to spend a few bucks to get rid of them safely.
My original lead to Quintox was in an Organic Gardening Magazine (of which I don’t have). It was described to me by several people that the cheap poison transfers to the predator (or cat/dog) - and that this poison acts on the bones of the intended victim and is not transferred to any predator. I suspect one could search a better description online.
...just found the following description (again) on a Natural and Organic Products site: Once a rodent eats Quintox, all feeding stops, unlike anticoagulants where feeding continues. The toxicant mobilizes calcium from the rodent's bones, producing hypercalcemia and heart failure. It acts faster than anticoagulants. The pellets work best in damp locations.
-- And 'original site:' "Quintox may be used around homes, farms and commercial locations and is authorized by USDA for use in federally inspected meat and poultry plants."
You’re certainly encouraged to hunt for further information, but my antidotal evidence and experience has shown it to be effective; and my current crop of owls seem to confirm that 
They leave smallish, open holes scattered randomly about. With no sign of
excavated dirt. I sometimes wonder what they do with it? That’s vole work! And I was wondering the same thing about the dirt, other than by using mole tunnels the mounds have likely disappeared - Maybe they pack it off in their cheek-pouches..? Either way, they’ve earned my wrath 
This is really great information. Thank you ! It is wonderful to hear about control options that seem to be safe to predators. I'm not in favor of cats because cats reek havoc on wild bird populations.
This subject is interesting and timely ........... Vitamin D deficiency is endemic in the U. S. population; espceially a problem for those living farther north (above 45 degrees N). It appears that we don't get enough exposure to sunlight (a definite problem in winter what with Oregon's typical rain and cloud cover, and because of solar angle). We also seem to be scared to death of sun exposure vis a vis skin cancers such that when ever we go outside, we cover up and use sun screen. To resolve my severe Vitamin D deficiency (determined by a simple blood test) I now take D3 suppliments at a level of 4000 IU's per day.
The gel caps are relatively inexpensive (less than $0.10 per 2000 IU gel cap). I wonder if it is possible to mix several capsules with some oats and innoculate the vole holes. I will do some experimenting. My primary concerns are water solubility and obtaining a sufficiently toxic dose to kill those damn little voles. Last summer, they ate off all the bottoms of my otherwise beautiful carrots.
I went ahead and bought a bucket of Quintox from the link Viron posted above. The shipping was free and it was shipped all the way from Wilsonville, OR. Like 5 miles from my house, it arrived the day after I ordered it. I can't wait to see if it works, I'll post any results.
Well, now I have 5.5 pounds of this Quintox stuff, and I used about a 1/2 of a cup. I've got more than I think I could ever begin to use. I wish I could have bought it in a much smaller quantity. Then I thought their might be other home orchard society types who wish the same thing. You see where I'm going with this?
To help defray my costs, and others, I'd like to offer my spare Quintox for sale in 1 cup volumes. The price I paid was $40 for 5.5 pounds, which is $7.27 per pound. So I think $3 per cup would be quite reasonable, and by the way, a cup is quite alot. Anybody willing to drop by my house on a weekend or after 5 during the week in backwater Canby, or meet me in downtown SW Portland near noon during the week, can arrange a purchase. Use the e-mail icon on the left of this post and notify me if you're interested and we can arrange a "pickup". I'm not really interested in costs as much as I don't want it to go to waste.
Tetoehr, keep in mind, you’ll need more than one application – I’ve at least given mine 4 rounds; and as mentioned (after my first application a year ago) they’re back. That’s back in small numbers of new infestations, of which when the rain stops (I prefer to apply it with a week of dry weather ahead so it doesn’t dissolve from rain) I intend to dose them again.
I’m dealing with roughly 2 acres, and after a years worth of applications (2 or 3 pellets down each hole) I’ve got a bit less than half of that 5.5lb container left. I do keep it twist-sealed in its plastic bag - inside its plastic bucket container, in a dark dry location, so I don’t expect it to go bad. Your offer is generous - just so you’ve enough to carry on the battle.
I was in the orchard of some friends yesterday and noted lots of vole activity around their poorest looking trees. Even in poor soil, the trees looked near death. I highly suspect that was due to voles secretly chewing at their roots. I suggested the Quintox, even sending them a link to this thread (Hi!). They’re working with a couple of acres, too, and with multiple applications I suspect they’d eventually use an entire bucket.
As far as I’m concerned there’s been far too little in the local media about the widespread damage caused by these rodents. Out of sight out of mind? I realize we’ll never eradicate them from the entire Willamette Valley, and likely shouldn’t, but their cumulative damage is surely in the multi-millions of dollars.
I toured the 100 acre farm my former neighbors bought, SW of McMinnville (Ore.), where likely 10 acres of their lowland was inundated by these pests. At the time, all I could do was tell them what 'they' were.
I was also giving some thought as to why a healthy fully loaded Braeburn Apple of mine had fallen over two years ago..? I propped it up and it’s doing fine, but as I’ve looked and listened to more vole damage reports - I suspect they were to blame! There were holes all around it But this is a battle I think we can win!
I too have been inundated with these little darlings this past year. I've been monitoring their holes and my method is as follows:
I bait new holes that show signs of newly eaten grass with a Strychnine coated seed that I get at Wilco. I use a capful and mark the hole i baited with upside down marking paint. A few days later I use a small hand sledge to cave in the hole and then I put soil in and seed it. I continue looking for new holes and bait them as they appear.
I have tried the different anti-coagulant baits and all they do is store them for later use. I went through 4 trays of bait in my shop only later to discover their stash.
I'll try that bait listed on the website just to give them some variety. I've also installed one owl nesting box and am working on a second.
J Bee:
I have tried the different anti-coagulant baits and all they do is store them for later use. I went through 4 trays of bait in my shop only later to discover their stash.
By they, you must mean mice? I’ve field mice in the garage, too; they get the snap-trap - and a last meal of peanut butter! In fact, Wilco has the best black plastic traps - with the high trigger bar, so you aren't messing around with those cheesy metal catches - that take a day off my life every time they trigger when setting 
As mentioned, I’m no expert in the field - just a do it myselfer, but won’t Strychnine transfer to predators..? I’m not sure how, or how fast it acts, but I’m told the trouble is when they’re feeling poorly, wandering around in the open either going crazy or dehydrated and looking for water - they become easy targets for owls and cats... As described, I learned the hard way and my hype over this product, Quintox, is that it doesn’t transfer.
I'll try that bait listed on the website just to give them some variety. I've also installed one owl nesting box and am working on a second.
I feel better already
Congratulations – that’s my problem too! I was a bit worried as my grass got so long before its first mowing - that I wasn’t able to see what was going on down there; but after a good close mow - nothing, not even holes!
Now I’m sure I’ve a scattered cluster of the little vermin dug in somewhere around here but I’ve got half a container of my original purchase awaiting them
- most manufactures will claim their stuff's too old shortly after you’ve purchased it - likely after having told you it will keep forever before I don’t know. Mine’s in a cool, dark and dry environment, twist-tied in its original bag inside its plastic tub – I’ll keep it till it’s gone, if it takes ten years. - or sell/give it to my neighbors - to keep the varmints from migrating back!
I’ve no idea about gophers - I think their exit holes are mainly kick-outs for excess tunnel dirt. I doubt they’d return to feed - wait a minute, I bate my antique gopher blaster, usually with a piece of carrot, apple or potato; maybe that’s not necessary? I’ve heard they’ll simply return to seal an open-ended hole - thus triggering my device by accident.
Gophers seem skittish, I don’t know if digging down to a tunnel and loading it with pellets would tempt them to return and feed..? It also seems like they’d need about ten times as much, but you’ve got that! Go-pher it!
Tell us how you do
Gopher traps work pretty good if you handle them only with gloves on. They are so wary that I have to use a propane torch to get all the scent of any previously killed gophers off the traps.
And they adore the smell of freshly crushed Queen Anns Lace (wild carrot) set just beyond the far side of the trap!(closest to us, not closest to them) Other fleshy native roots that they eat are also useful for baiting. I always cover the my dig-out hole with a black tarp so there is no light to make them wary. They come out seized in the trap the size of half-grown cats. Huge.
This response is in lieu of playing phone-tag with new HOS board member, Jodi G., who asked if the Quintox was working on my Meadow Voles and would I do it again? In short, Yes!
After wiping out the multitudes with a couple doses to every hole (around two acres worth), I did my latest follow-up in August of 2009. There were several active clans who had on average 5 holes, generally under fruit trees; either feeding directly on their roots or utilizing their shade I suspected. It took very little of my remaining (original) order of Quintox to clean them up.
After that single application - no more activity! And, no adverse effects on wild or domesticated creatures. I suspect I’d likely missed a few holes but assume the owls took them out, due to the fact all vole activity had ceased.
I feel the problems and damage from these Meadow Voles is one of the least understood or reported problems in the Willamette Valley of Oregon - at least for the Home Orchardist. Out of sight - out of mind is likely the reaction of most. I may have mentioned in this thread walking an orchard last year and listening to the owners describe how poorly their 8 to 10 year old fruit trees were doing. They were stunned as I pointed out the vole hole-riddled ground around their most sickly trees
Quintox works ...if they’d like to mail me a complementary tub for recommending it – I’ll take it! Otherwise, this testimony is strictly due to my prior losses and the near complete control of these pests. So, Jodi, go for it And, thanks for stepping up to the HOS Board.
Quintox update: Quintox is no longer manufactured; it has been replaced by Terad3
I just spoke with Pro Pest Products (1-800-476-3368) she™ said Terad3 is a new product as of December, 2009 and that it meets the same standards as did Quintox “such as non-transferability to non-target pests. I believe she said it’s made by the same company.
Here is the Pro Pest / Do-It-Yourself Pest Control Inc. online product link: http://store.doyourownpestcontrol.com/s ... ria=terad3
Here is their description of Terad3: TERAD3 Ag Pellets is the first and only rodenticide in pellet form approved by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) for organic production. With its unique active ingredient, Vitamin D3, TERAD3 Ag Pellets can be used by farmers operating under the guidelines of the USDA National Organic Program (NOP) to control rats and mice. No secondary poisoning for birds of prey.
Feel free to do your homework, but when/if I need more, it looks as if I’ll be ordering Terad3
This is a great topic. Thanks for spreading the news, Viron. I didn't even notice the damage that they had done to my fruit trees until you guys wrote about it and I looked to see what had happened. Now I'm trying to be vigilant to keep the mulch away from the trunk and spreading the news to other gardeners.
Thanks
John S
PDX OR
I really need solution to my vole problem but this web page says:
TERAD3 Ag Pellets, with its EPA-approved label, can be used in all types of organic production, including farming, animal production, warehousing/storage and food processing.However, it cannot be used in the fields or orchards where crops are growing TERAD3 Ag Pellets offers organic growers the low hazard benefits of the active ingredient, Vitamin D3, in a pelleted bait.
The product label says:
USE RESTRICTIONS: This product may only be used to control Norway rats, roof rats and house mice
in and around agricultural buildings. This includes swine, poultry, cattle, and dairy facilities, and food
storage buildings and warehouses.
All bait placements must be inside or within 50 feet of buildings. All baits placed in USDA- inspected
facilities must be in tamper-resistant bait stations. Do not place bait in areas where there is a possibility of
contaminating food or feed or surfaces that come in direct contact with food or feed.
This doesn't sound approved in orchards and especially not in my vegetable garden where my biggest vole problem is.
Please tell me I'm misinterpreting this as I have a serious vole problem.
Mike
Mike,
Sounds like you’re dealing with a garden; my experience is with yard and orchard - and a product called Quintox. I’ll treat near my vegetable garden, but not inside it; though I’ve little fear of ingesting any/or enough of this product to harm me or others.
But I’m not the expert, only stating my experience while admitting I’d (though the price has increased by nearly a third) do the same with this replacement product.
Here’s the distributor’s toll free # One, eight-hundred, four, seven, six, three, three, six, eight. If your questions are too legal or intense, I suspect you’ll be referred to the manufacturer. If your questions make them sweat, they’ll likely recommend you not use their product. Your call
This is a great topic. Thanks for spreading the news, Viron.
John, you’re welcome - sure wish this forum had been up and running back in my formative years, though tagging along on countless orchard tours kinda did the same thing.
Unfortunately, mulch seems a vole’s playground. Insulated, and providing cover that’s likely what gave them a great start around my trees. Now I keep that area bare though water deep. Their main target seems the roots of fruit trees and vines all kinds! Either they’re constantly feeding on the roots or using the cover for shade and protection (or all the above).
I’ve also got multiple owl perches, and if they're found inside a garden, an eight-horse Troybilt or my favorite shovel can till em up or dig em out. What’s amazing is to find everyone I know in rural areas over-run by these vermin. Had one describe the farmer’s trick of deep-disking them but that doesn’t work so well in an orchard. Another, with a multitude of roaming cats, doesn’t know why their cats aren’t controlling them. From what I’ve read, they’re simply out of control!
As I’d described, an organic sister-in-law made the effort of looking this stuff up one rainy day while discussing our damage. We were excited to learn it wasn’t transferable to other creatures; her, cats; me, owls. As Home Orchardist’s it’s done the trick! - now should I buy up a pallet before it’s banned " title="Laughing" />
I had a great time leading a pruning demonstration for the Yamhill County Master Gardeners today, south of Lafayette, Oregon. As we walked from one orchard to another folks began recognizing the grass-chewed openings of meadow voles - which lead to the discussion here.
As someone squeezed the name Quintox out of me -- I quickly informed those following the conversation that it’s now something else, if basically the same thing, though I couldn’t remember the name. I also suggested they find this thread and that I’d bring it to the top.
As several of us walked and talked I was reminded of the poster, mike (above), and let them know this poison was not to be scattered around the orchard but placed down the vole holes - A collective ‘Dah’ seemed the response. The apparent conflicting labeling is likely attributed to, 1) this product appears to be sold in bate packs that are scattered inside or near warehouses. 2) Vole control is apparently a separate application in which they are either unaware of or don’t consider profitable enough to market for.
Otherwise Terad3 is the stuff you Master Gardeners. And, as assumed, placed down the obvious vole tunnels it would be next to impossible for any other creature to consume - the good part being - once it’s inside the vole it is not transferred to predators. Enjoy
Deja vu -- Upon concluding this year’s pruning demonstration for the Yamhill County Master Gardeners near Grand Island yesterday (a different location from last year), I again noticed and noted Meadow Vole tunnels near our practice orchard - After suggesting any of the 20 participants not associated with the Home Orchard Society at least check out this forum - I also said I’d bring a couple of forum topics to the top so here’s the first.
- This is the second of two pages on this topic, having evolved from its first posting in February of 2009 do note - the product name has changed. Otherwise, it’s apparently been working. And, any of our members with current information to add please do
Viron -- it may be deja vu all over again.
In '08 and '09 I had a big problem with meadow voles but the Quintox I obtained in '09 did a great job of getting rid of the little buggers. Last year I had no problem with them whatsoever.
This year however they seemed to have returned with a vengence. I have just given the area around my huckleberries a second "dose" and will be inspecting that area and other parts around my fruit trees and gardens on a very regular basis.
Hopefully I can get rid of them early enough so that bumblebees can utilize the empty burrows for their nests.
Lee, the first year I took them on with Quintox I likely applied it 3 different times. Last year I hit them once or twice. There were far fewer of them the second year - but from wherever they apparently migrate it was obvious some were attempting to set up house again.
This year I’ve noticed very few holes - but made my first application a couple days ago. What really bothered me was finding serious chewing at the base of several of my fig clumps! They’ve not griddled anything - and there aren’t many holes, maybe 2 or 3, but they’re right at the base of the figs. Now they’ve something new to chew on 
What had me looking over my figs was finding the same chewing by the same varmints at an orchard I pruned last weekend. With five fig trees, the area with the most vole activity had a hole with massive chewing right along side the trunk of one of their fig trees (their figs are pruned to beautiful trees, as opposed to my multi-stemmed-clumps).
I e-mailed them a link to this thread - and here’s what I just found:
- The trees look great and thank you for a job well done. I know the crop will be small but that's ok this year.
I ordered the Terad 3, which replaced Quintox (due to new EPA regulations). The new product works with Vit D levels and is non-toxic to birds. I had to order 6 pounds for almost $47. Hope to sell off a few pounds. Can't wait for it to get here...sometime this week.
If you know of anyone who needs a pound...please let me know. I have a pretty accurate scale. $7.71 per pound.
See you in town someday soon.
Susan
So how’s this place for a resource -- Stay on em, I doubt we’ll ever eradicate them, but another orchard I was in last week had been peppered with vole holes two years ago ... especially near their cherry trees, which looked quite sickly. They ordered and used the same stuff - now all signs of vole activity have disappeared as I enjoyed watching Ravens and hawks through the day from their country orchard!
Hey; Hopefully I can get rid of them early enough so that bumblebees can utilize the empty burrows for their nests. -- or Yellowjackets
For your consideration:
1) "With its EPA-approved label, TERAD3 Ag BLOX can be used in all types of organic production, including farming, animal production, warehousing/storage and food processing. It can be used in and around agricultural buildings, including swine, poultry, cattle and dairy facilities. However, it cannot be used in the fields or orchards where crops are growing." http://doyourownpestcontrol.com/Terad3rodentbait.htm
2) I just spoke with a supplier in Portland to confirm the above. His response to "How is this supposed to be applied?" was a) if there is any chance of any non-target species getting to it, it needs to be placed in a bait station and b)if there is no chance of non-target species getting to it (ie, in an enclosed crawl space of a house) then it can be used without bait stations.
FYI.
We’ve had that comment before and it seems that the manufacturer has no idea the product is being dropped down vole holes... But since voles are the only inhabitants of their holes, there appears to be no problem. It’s not being scattered across open ground or tossed out in bait packets, it’s being applied directly down the open tunnels.
I wonder if that harsh sounding warning is to keep filbert growers, for example, from scattering it throughout their orchards to eliminate squirrels? That’s the only local outdoor poisoning I’ve witnessed - and I believe - (whatever the product) was set inside wire cages - Most often accused of being an En(Viron)mentalist by friends – I’m perfectly fine with the continuing use of my Quintox™ (I’ve still got the old stuff) as described.
Greetings, GOT VOLES? MAYBE A NEW AND IMPROVED IDEA HERE?I recently attended the 2011 scion exchange and brought a friend to join the HOS. Asked the right questions and got the right answers; LOOK AT THE HOS WEBSITE FORUM!
Now I want to return the favor.....It may actually already be listed earlier in this forum or another;
Instead of dropping a few pellets of the safer Terad3 down many, many holes.......
A timber company forester recommended, make 16" +/- tubes out of PVC pipe or any some such weatherproof pipe like product (approx. 1-2 inches in inside diameter, not big enough for squirrels, RIGHT!), duct tape one end closed, put some pellets inside and place on a slight downward slope (open end down to keep the rain out) holding it in place with a couple of HEAVY GUAGE wire hoops pushed into the ground, sort of like croquet wickets over the "tube".
Probably best to use small amounts of poison and check often!
I believe that comparatively the prices are quite similar if not less expensive to go with the Terad3 product, less packaging than the "toxic to everybody" varieties. I'm sharing a 6lb tub of pellets with another small orchardist...$23.50 apiece, and hopefully no harm to the other wildlife.
And another interesting note; these voles have like 8+ litters a year, so I have been told.
Good luck and be well,
Stacy @ Eville
Vole damage on young apple trees in Forest Grove
Viron here …Here we go again -- I met up with our Cider Boys & girls north of Forest Grove (OR) this afternoon for some tasting and a tour. We noticed intensive meadow vole work near one corner of the newly planted and grafted cider apples, on Bud-9 rootstock. Walking down the row we noted the rootstock on a dozen trees, including limbs of the new scions (grafts) gnawed and girdled by these voles.
This photo was taken by one of the attendees, whom I asked to post it on this topic forum as an example to all of the serious damage these creatures cause. Notice they’ve eaten the bark, fine roots and main roots off this rootstock! As a remedy, the best I could suggest is they check out this Forum!
Another suggestion was to smear roofing tar (while wearing a long plastic glove) around the base and chewed limbs of the surrounding trees until the voles are dealt with. And that placing hawk / owl perches throughout the one acre orchard would give some natural predation. …and that using the product described here should not transfer to them…
Good luck guys! And Thanks for the invite, good food, discussion, tour …and most of all - that awesome propane heater --- WHOOPS - Cider, too! (we’ll stay in touch!)
Hi VIron,
Are you still recommending that environmentally friendly deterrent for voles?
Sepp Holzer of permaculture fame suggests letting trees grow out naturally, so that the limbs grow out and touch the ground, thereby lessening the damage they do.
Thansk
John S
PDX OR
John, “Are you still recommending that environmentally friendly deterrent for voles?”
Yes, John, that’s why I suggest the folks attending yesterday’s meeting look over this thread. *
“…suggests letting trees grow out naturally, so that the limbs grow out and touch the ground, thereby lessening the damage they do.”
The tree in the photo above is not even a year old, only a fresh graft from last year. There’s no way these orchardist’s can let them ‘grow out’ with this kind of damage. The voles are working in from the ‘grass-line’ around the tilled orchard - and heading for hundreds of such trees!
* please note, all; my earlier posts on this subject-thread, along with the vast majority of my forum posts were corrupted by hackers after our battle/s to keep spam and porn off this forum. I’ve reconstructed some, as well as quotes of mine used in the posts of others - in order to make this information available to other fruit enthusiasts. So if some things ‘don’t make sense,’ sorry, they once did ~
There was an interesting idea from another gardening site: Permies.com-
They recommended putting stakes in the ground with wires hooked and aluminum pie plates to make vibrations in the soil. Drove the voles away to other yards. I found it very interesting.
http://www.permies.com/t/12100/permacul ... E-invasion
John S
PDX OR
I was at the orchard of a friends last weekend and couldn’t help but notice how poorly his young fruit trees were doing. In fact, ‘in’ for 6 years, they’re the equivalent of 3 year olds and look near death. Sure, he’s not kept the grass competition back, or mulched and deep watered, but what stood out most to me were the multitude of meadow vole holes and the assumed damage they’ve done to the root systems.
Out of site – out of mind seems an all-too common response… unfortunately, which in my mind, separates the serious orchardist’s from the wanna bees… As I was collecting my first harvest of Desert King figs today I noticed some vole holes. About the diameter of a quarter, and generally within the drip-line of the fruit trees. And not only around my fig trees, but various others, including grapes.
I had two Persimmon trees die this spring, and though I’ve removed both, the area around one looks like Vole Central! So I walked the yard, dosing every hole with around 4 or 5 little blue pellets. It appears you can never get em all, or for the fact I’m surround by forest, they’ll always return? But it remains a battle.
Observations: they like dark cover, limbs that hang low and shield them from predators; I’ll assume owls, both day and night varieties, do that job for me. I’ve not seen any coyotes and don’t have any cats. They use abandoned mole holes thus do not push up soil mounds. Where there are some – there are more; you need to look close. There is no activity nearest the ‘forest edge,’ assuming predators monitor and snag them from there. They’re active both day and night. They like fallen fruit as well as the roots of the tree that grew it. Areas underwater much of the winter are still used in the summer. They will hide under mulch and cardboard. They will ‘tunnel’ through tall ‘fallen’ grass making a network of paths. They will eat bark above ground during the winter, especially figs.
So this is just an update… cuz they’re still out there – but nowhere near as bad as I’ve seen them elsewhere – and the poison described here does work, you just need to monitor their population and re-apply as necessary (and I’m still not getting any ‘kick-back from sales). I’d been somewhat lax the last couple of years; my main mower broke so a lot of grass in the orchard was left unmowed last summer - they loved it! And, I suspect my Persimmon trees paid the price… Well, the other two, as well as my entire yard/ orchard was ‘treated’ tonight. I’ll monitor for activity ~
Hey Viron, I'm having what could become a serious vole problem. They killed one of my nanking bush cherries in about 2 weeks and it appears that they're starting to gnaw on the trunks of my plum trees and yank up some of the top roots to chew. I looked up the TERAD3 Ag pellets in this link http://store.doyourownpestcont.....ag-pellets. In the description it says "However, it cannot be used in the fields or orchards where crops are growing." Is this the same stuff you were using? And if so, did you have any issues with it? They seem to imply that it would be harmful to the orchard.
[quote="sohoppy":1aeb9av8] I looked up the TERAD3 Ag pellets in this link http://store.doyourownpestcontrol.com/terad3-ag-pellets. In the description it says "However, it cannot be used in the fields or orchards where crops are growing." Is this the same stuff you were using [/quote:1aeb9av8]
That is what I’ve been using… and it’s confusing to read such a statement after all the ‘Organic endorsements.’ So here’s what I’ve just submitted to their online contact site:
I’ve advocated your product within our local 'Home Orchard Society' for years and have successfully used it myself for the same, will you please explain your following warning? -
"However, it cannot be used in the fields or orchards where crops are growing."
What danger is posed by using this product in an orchard? We are after Western Meadow Voles, which use abandoned mole holes and application consists of dropping 3 or 4 pellets down their obvious holes until numbers decrease or activity stops all-together.
I'm a Forum Moderator for our site and after posting an update to a 'thread' that's had over eight-thousand hits, viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1201 - had the above quested asked of me. I'd like to give an accurate answer and continue to advocate the use of your product.
"Your inquiry was submitted and will be responded to as soon as possible. Thank you for contacting us."
I'll let you know what I learn 
Here we go, from Ken Martin of doyourownpestcontrol:
"In June of 2011 the EPA enacted sweeping changes to the rodenticide market called Rodenticide Risk Mitigation. Among the rules in this decision was that any rodenticide used for control of the house mouse (Mus musculus), the roof rat (Rattus rattus), or the Norway rat (Rattus norvegicus) must be placed within 50 feet of a building. The Terad3 AG Pellets label now reads:
"All bait placements must be inside or within 50 feet of buildings."
This wording has eliminated the need for wording about it's use in fields or orchards where crops are growing. There is currently a revision in the works that will allow baiting of burrows farther than 50 feet from a structure, so it looks like that will be allowed on the new labeling. Since this product is labeled for use against mice and rats this would not apply to use against other rodents. Since the active ingredient is cholecalciferol (vitamin D3) I don't know why it would pose a threat to active orchards.
I hope this helps but it is a sticky labeling dilemma since voles are not listed on the label. I have a call in to the technical guy at Bell Labs who manufactures the Terad3 line. He may be able to shed some additional light on the situation. I'll be sure to keep you in the loop.
Thank You,
Ken Martin"
That’s exactly what I thought. It’s labeling is for its intended use against other pests and, as in a ‘page two’ discussion on this very thread, above ground bait packets or bate stations would not be used in a crop field or an orchard. And – as the active ingredient is vitamin D3, as Ken puts it, “I don't know why it would pose a threat to active orchards.”
I’ll pass on anything further, and better safe than sorry, but as mentioned – this is a very serous and continuing threat to Willamette Valley orchards. I’ve seen very few, if any lacking the telltale signs of and damage from these meadow voles. And for as much attention as is paid to every sign of pests or maladies ‘above the ground,’ very little concern seems to be shown for what’s going on under it.
Don't you just love bureaucracy? Well, that guy was very helpful and thorough with his explanation. It's good to know that I can still use those pellets. Since they've already killed one of my nanking cherries I don't want to let them do any more damage. It looks like they've been gnawing on the bottom of one of my plum trees as well, but not nesting there as far as I can tell. I've narrowed down where their nest is though, so I'll be placing pellets in the holes and hopefully that will take care of them!
Idyllwild
simplepress
jafar
Marsha H
Viron
1 Guest(s)