I have an area that I plan to plan pears and apples in But with one problem A high water table at most times the water table is between 1-1.5 ft but at times at can be just a few inches below the surface or at the surface. This is Very well draining sandy soil but the problem lies in the natural aquifer below which is why the water table is so high. So I was going to go with raised pipe but that seems like it would really constraint growth as most fruit tree roots grow out and the pipe would be really expensive. All my pears that i am planting are on pyrus calleryana and some apples that will be on m111 both of which I read can take flooding for several months. What effect does this have on the tree? Will it cease growth and stop production will current fruit on the tree drop during flooding? But my main question is aside from bringing more dirt to raise the whole 1/4 acre up 1ft what cost effective things can I do help with my very high table water problem? Does mounded up dirt help do anything? I've read that people with high water tables can plant their trees closer with fewer problems. Would closer plantings help in this situation as the trees would be taking up more water and reducing the water table? Would some kind of a ground cover do the same? any help would be appreacted
Mac,
I was ridiculed by a neighbor years ago for planting 4 apples and a European plum tree in an area that regularly has standing water during our wettest time of the year. Being it’s the richest soil on my place - I thought it worth a try 
With no particular rootsock, every tree has thrived. The standing water is during their dormant season; if it were the other way around I suspect oxygen deprivation would do them in. As is, by the time they flower the water level is back under ground, though never far… and I’ve had no difficulties.
In fact, an escaped rootstock ‘shoot’ from the “Peach plum†has been successfully grafted over (top worked) to 3 productive Asian plums and is thriving in the footprint of a once planned pond! Oregon has distinctive wet and dry periods. With our summers as bone dry as our winters are mucky wet - I suspect we get away with planting closer to the water table than those with summer downpours.
Yikes! Don’t just listen to me… I’d let a few others check in first 
Fall planting works, I’ve heard it allows the roots to get a ‘bit’ of an extra start. To me, I’d rather have a nursery responsible for getting my future tree/s through whatever winter we’ve got in store ... then snag them at some spring sale.
I’d have a hard time plopping a tree into a half-filled hole of water… I’d wait till Spring begins to warm and dry things out, have a hole ready, then sink them in when the water level goes down. Keep in mind, all locations differ… the fact mine have worked may simply be due to my little valley draining a smaller watershed than yours.
Keep your eyes open, but nothing ventured – nothing gained <!-- s
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Mac-
I would use Oregon swamp crabapple as the rootstock. It takes winter banana, and then you can graft any apple or pear onto it. I would also look into growing in a raised bed. You could grow aronia in a raised bed and then graft crabapples onto it. I'm not saying you shouldn't plant an apple, but that's many years of waiting to find out that it might not work. I'm trying to increase your chances of having something good to eat.
John S
PDX OR
Crataegus douglasii, the native NW black fruited hawthorn is graft compatible with pears, making a semi-dwarf tree. It is highly tolerant of wet, clay soils. It suckers a fair amount, but you can reduce that by not cultivating around the tree. Only mow around it.
I have such a hawthorn with three pear varieties on it that is about 40 years old.
Mac,
That’s the info and suggestions worth waiting for… but you’re going to need some custom grafting and special rootstock/s. If you’ve questions on the combinations or sources, ask. And, where are you located?
Otherwise… gee guys, I wonder if there’s a market for such groundwater-tolerant fruit trees? I’ve not seen such combinations advertised or available from any sources. If a nursery began to produce trees with those qualities, does anyone think they could find a decent enough market or make it worth their while?
How many people have avoided planting due to standing water? How well would such trees do with a near constant supply of summer water? With the interstem combinations, natural dwarfing and apparent ability to support any cultivar… what’s the problem? I can see one additional year for the interstem graft, but field budding on a commercial scale might speed that up...
I am loacted in port st joe, FL zone 9a/8b I have already grafted my trees on calleryana so I was looking on how plant them using that, But me grafting new scions off those trees on to Crataegus douglasii will really get me a better wet feet tolerant tree then that's what I may do depending on its fireblght resistance. How fireblight resistant would you say that it is? Also How is your fruit size and sweetness on this stock? Is it graft compatible with asian pears, apples or lowquat?
Thanks
Jesse
Idyllwild
simplepress
jafar
Marsha H
Viron
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