Apple rust is common; humidity may be a factor in its spreading. ‘Out here’ our wet springs help spread the spores, but it’s been years since I’ve attempted to curb it, and since it mainly attacks my Gravenstein apples I ignore it…

Squirrels are persistent and intelligent; I’ve seen metal ‘stove pipe’ tacked around tree trunks in three foot lengths … but if they can jump from another tree or in any way reach any part of it – they’re in. I’ve never had problems with them messing with my fruit, but birdseed and walnuts are a different story.

I can’t guess why your apple tree's are shedding leaves already...? But when an apple tree dies, it doesn’t take much longer than a couple of years. There’s likely reasons other than a slow demise, but I can’t think of any… And don’t let the ‘hollowed’ condition of an apple tree fool you; they only need their outer wood & bark and can live for decades with hollowed limbs and trunks. You may want / need to support those if they’re a hazard, but nature usually clears out such weaknesses during a winter storm.

“Can I prune these in autumn after these leaves fall off, or should I wait until late February to do the heavy pruning?” -- Yes. I prune more and more in the autumn (in order to keep up with 27 trees & vines); an older friend prunes as she harvests – filling her picking bag then clipping all ‘watershoots’ within reach. I’ll climb in as soon as the majority of nutrients appear to have been ‘sucked in’ by the tree and prune as needed until spring.

One good reason for waiting until winter for the major pruning is to ‘see the tree.’ Watershoots are easy to snip, but when you’re removing limbs for balance and ‘fine pruning’ it’s better to see what you’re doing. Hopefully, your father had stayed on their pruning … so you’re not dealing with the ‘trees within a tree’ effect of a neglected fruit tree. Removing mature watershoots is hard and often dangerous work.

“The peach trees have always been a source of trouble for my father” – He’s not the only one … I’ve given up on peach trees… There are (at least) three diseases that attack them ‘out here,’ and if you’ve the humidity I’ve heard described back east – they’re likely even more difficult for you. And since I’ve given up on them – I’m no expert; maybe one will jump in…

“The Kiwi is an enigma to me” – Those I do! Are they “Fuzzy” leaves and shoots? If not, you’ve got “Hardy Kiwi.” I have both … and expect you have ‘fuzzy’ (similar to ‘store bought’ brown fuzzy skin type). They don’t sound in very good shape; Kiwi are notorious for sending their ‘vine-shoots’ everywhere; if you’ve only got one new shoot on one plant, it sounds like something’s wrong.

Pruning Kiwi is confusing, so I stopped paying attention to ‘the books’ and began winging it years back. They need sevear pruning every year, otherwise they end up in a mat similar to a neglected grape plant – only twice the density. They’ll actually strangle themselves if left alone! They love water, mulch, fertilizer and sunshine; lacking any of those will cause a problem. The Fuzzy’s will bloom (and produce fruit) on both one year old wood and ‘fruit spurs.’ If they’re too shaded or thickly matted, with little to no new growth, they may have stopped blooming.

They are un-grafted vines, and the male is always hardier than the female (less inbreeding). With so little new growth, I’d get drastic … though beginning with caution, and I’d never cut it “back to the base.” I’d do my best to ‘untangle’ the mass – far easier said than done. Back-track to the main trunks, sawing off any unproductive (non leaf bearing) / dead looking wood. If the trellis is sturdy, leave it, if not – repair it. I’d attach what’s left to the trellis and make sure next season it has a balanced fertilizer, thick mulch and plenty of water. As you’d be dealing with two – think plural.

That’s off the top of my head " title="Wink" /> Otherwise, keep us posted - and hope someone else checks in.