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How do you recognize codling moth entry?
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jafarj
422 Posts
(Offline)
1
May 24, 2010 - 3:28 pm

I'm afraid I'm too late in applying most of my footies.

Almost all of the apples, still less than 1" diameter, have nicks in their skin. If I cut accross them shallowly there is a small browned zone maybe a couple of millimeters in diameter around the break. Are these codling moth stings? Is there a way to tell if the apple is still salvageable?

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John S
PDX OR
3032 Posts
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2
May 24, 2010 - 10:57 pm

When I can tell it is a codling moth sting for sure, it is too late. I have scraped the skin with my fingernail and removed a small nick with varying success. I'm still working on that model and placing the ziploc/footie over it afterwards.
John S
PDX OR

PS I've got the micro perf bags. Check your email

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Oregon Woodsmoke
143 Posts
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3
May 26, 2010 - 3:53 pm

I'd say that yes, that is most probably codling moth.

I'm waiting for John S to finish his experiment,and I hope it works, but from my perspective, once the egg has been laid in the fruit, it's a goner.

I'm not picky. I'll cut a worm out of an apple and then eat the apple. But the coddling moth seems to make the fruit lose quality and not ripen well.

The bloody rotten buggers will string every apple, just once. How do they know when an apple is already occupied? If we knew that, we might be able to trick them into thinking the fruit was already spoken for.

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DonRicks
188 Posts
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4
May 26, 2010 - 6:52 pm

Okay, I may have a different point of view.....my trapping of codling moth in Seattle indicated there was some CM (codling moth) a while ago, but that the cool weather has severely hampered how many are out there. I have doubts that what you are seeing is CM and I suspect that you are not late at all in applying the foot sox. In particular, you are DEFINITELY not late for protecting against the main culprit, the apple maggot fly. You prevent the fly and you can always cut out the CM problem later if that developes in the apple. But, like I say, it probably won't develop in the apple because I don't think there is a big codling moth (CM) problem yet.

It is my view that we need to become more scientific and pool our knowledge so that we really can map out where and when the CM is flying....and have less guesswork.

The http://das.wsu.edu website lists this for the Vancouver, Washington weather station which is close to Portland, I presume.

For Codling Moth

Chlorantraniliprole (Altacor 35WDG)
Methoxyfenozide (Intrepid 2F)
Novaluron (Rimon 0.83EC)
Pyriproxyfen (Esteem 35WP)
View Full WSU SprayguideLast Updated: 05-25-2010

Degree-days since Jan. 1 = 309
(old: after biofix = 134 DD)

Current Conditions:
21% of CM adults should have emerged. Egg hatch of the first summer generation should start by 395 DD (220 DD after biofix) and peak trap catch should occur by 535 DD (360 DD after biofix).

Management:
If you did not use a residual ovicide to control CM eggs (Intrepid, Esteem, Rimon) you can Oil at 375 DD (200 DD after biofix) as a strategy to delay the first larvicide (cover) timing until 525 DD (350 DD after biofix). Oil used for insecticidal control needs to be applied at a 1% concentration (e.g. 1 or 2 gallons of oil in 100 or 200 gallons per acre). Alternatively, if an Oil only program is used to control CM eggs for the entire first generation then reapply at 200 DD intervals (at 575 DD and 775 DD [400 DD and 600 DD after biofix]). Under high pressure shorten the retreatment interval to 150 DD between treatments and apply through 975 DD (800 DD after biofix).

Conditions:

Egg hatch is imminent. 40% of CM adults should have emerged. Egg hatch should start at 395 DD (220 DD after biofix) and trap catch should still be increasing.

Management:

Insecticides that kill young CM larvae before they enter the fruit should be applied by 425 DD (250 DD after biofix). The timing of a repeat application depends on the residual activity of the product used. Every 20 DD delay in treatment results in 3-5% increase in egg hatch past 455 DD (280 DD after

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greenthumb37
39 Posts
(Offline)
5
May 28, 2010 - 5:16 pm

Thanks Don, your information is extremely helpful and I will be using it once the weather co-operates.

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Carl Bankes
5 Posts
(Offline)
6
May 29, 2010 - 6:09 pm

Jafari, What you describe sounds a lot like some apple skin injuries i'm noticing as well. I'm an ordinary home orchardist with only three apple trees but I would like to suggest that what you are seeing may be pock marks from the hale our area had recently and not caused by insects at all. If you planned to use footies I suggest putting them on and if the fruit in question turns out to be wormless when ripe you will have done an interresting experiment that will benefit us all. Thanks.

crbankes :)

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