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grafting supplies
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janet
9 Posts
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1
February 28, 2016 - 6:12 am

I attended the grafting workshop yesterday - thanks to all the folks there who helped!  I don't have any grafting supplies - any advice on where best to get knife, rubber strips, sealer?  I plan to graft about 20 trees this year .

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jafar
819 Posts
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2
February 28, 2016 - 8:36 am

janet, welcome to the forum.

I think you can buy Doc Farwell's heal and seal at Portland Nursery.  Its expensive to order online in small sizes.

I've ordered Parafilm and grafting rubbers from Midwest Vinyard supply before.  They also sell a collection of grafting knives.  I like the Tina fixed blade 605 for a (relatively) inexpensive option.  That's what I've been using for the last 10 years maybe.  I probably paid $25 for it then, but they are $40 now. 

I'll probably get a more expensive folding one now for convenience when out in the orchard topworking.

You can use any sharp knife.  I prefer one that fits the hand, is beveled/sharpened only on one side, has a straight and thin, but stiff blade and that takes and keeps an edge.

At the All About Fruit show I think they sell little kits with a few grafting rubbers and a little bit of sealer and such.  I think its good for a tree or two, probably not the thing for 20 (plus next year).

I think there are some more local vinyard supply, hopefully others will jump in.

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Dubyadee
Puyallup, Washington, USA
241 Posts
(Offline)
3
February 28, 2016 - 4:56 pm

Janet

I use a Stanley utility knife for grafting.  I like the large handle so I can get a good grip and power through the scion and rootstock.  I also like the ability to slide the blade in and out with my thumb between cuts so I only need one hand for the knife while leaving the other hand free to hold the scion or top-worked branch.  Before I start grafting I hone the blade a little on a whetstone to make clean cuts through the bark/cambium.  I think crushed cambium from dull blades is a big factor in failed grafts.  Be sure to use quality blades, some of the cheaper utility knives have thin blades that flex too much making it hard to get a nice flat cut on the pieces you are trying to mate.  I have a utility knife dedicated to grafting so I don't use it on drywall or other projects.

For whip and tongue grafts I use rubber splicing tape.  The tape comes in 3/4" x 22' rolls.  The last roll I bought is Morris Products 60220.  I use my utility knife to cut the tape in half lengthwise, I just cut around the outside of the roll of tape through a couple layers before peeling it off.  I use about a 2" - 3" x 3/8" piece of tape for each graft, depends on diameter of the graft area.  I stretch the tape a little as I put it on the graft making sure to enclose the entire union and squeeze the joint tightly together.  The tape doesn't work too great when it is raining because the tape isn't extremely sticky, need to work on dry days or use umbrella.  After the graft starts showing signs of growth, come back with your utility knife and slit one side of the tape so it will split as the tree grows.

I use a toilet wax ring to seal the tip of the scion for apple and pears.  I use parafilm for cherries and plums, wrapping the entire stone fruit scion with the parafilm. 

To make tags I cut aluminum cans into rectangles, I cut data or phone wire for ties, and I carry a small block of cedar and ball point pen to mark/make impression on the tags.  The cedar block makes a good surface for writing on the tag because it is soft and lets the aluminum accept the impression.  The tag can be pierced with the tip of your pruner blade to insert a tie wire.

I use a canvas nail apron to hold my tools while grafting.

Dubyadee

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janet
9 Posts
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4
March 2, 2016 - 5:21 am

thanks for your advice!  I appreciate it.

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John S
PDX OR
2901 Posts
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5
March 3, 2016 - 8:22 pm

If Portland Nursery runs out of Doc Farwell's, you can buy or order it at Naomi's organic in SE Portland to avoid the shipping. I use the same labels as Dubyadee.  You can buy thick rubber bands at Staples.  I like a knife with a thick blade for the outside cut. I use a utility/Xacto knife for the inside cut.  I prefer parafilm for budding. It think it works better.

JohN S
PDX OR

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Rooney
Vancouver SW Washington
815 Posts
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6
March 16, 2016 - 2:52 am

John: Agreed about the parafilm comments, you kind of forgot to mention buds develop less callus and more prone to fail if not inspected after each graft through the translucency of it.

General comment: Some suppliers retail a confusing product (parafilm look-alike) that is really a vinyl type or plastic. Be warned that it has no stick and little strength or stretch.

Glad to see this forum living up to great expectations in referring good vendors that know what they sell (you would be surprised to know how many don't). I emailed in as a volunteer this year after having missed a couple. Looking forward to seeing you all at the fair this weekend. Guess I get to bring in and compare knives. This year starting tomorrow I'm going with my new 6" long and thin stanley double edged planer blades.

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John S
PDX OR
2901 Posts
(Offline)
7
March 21, 2016 - 9:12 pm

Great tip, Rooney,

I didn't forget-I didn't know. Now I do, and I'll try that. 
Thanks,
John

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