macmanmatty,

I find no 'location' in your user profile; differing latitudes will have varying bud-breaks. And unfamiliar with “p callerenya,” a Google search resulted in, “Your search - p callerenya - did not match any documents.” I am familiar with OH x F333; Quince A; OH x F87; and Betulifolia as pear tree rootstocks, as each were available at our recent scion exchange… You may be referring to a flowing pear, of which I’ve only recently read about.

Anyway: “…I cut the stock too short and left no buds or leaves. Is this bad?”

You generally leave two or three buds on the rootstock above the level at which it was planted, or ‘the soil line.’ They often open up, and if left alone will directly compete with your scion. ‘Most’ grafters checking in around here will instantly rub them off – I’ll let them leaf but not develop a competing stem, IF the scion is actively growing.

Cutting off your rootstock buds and grafting so near the roots will likely create a problem for you when planting; if the scion touches soil it will root – thus losing the dwarfing and/or other desirable characteristics of your rootstock. To avoid this, you will have to plant ‘high’ – thus locating or exposing the rootstock's roots to the surface. I suspect you have a very short tree!

“…how long should it take for growth to occur my pear scions?? Are there any ways to tell if the scions died before they push?”

I’d say a lot depends on the graft itself; tight, clean, with a lot of cambium contact and sealed to the air… there seems to be a couple weeks lag-time between my top-worked fruit trees leaf production and that of the scion. Without any buds below the scion, you haven’t many options other than to be patient. Had you left several buds, and the scion didn’t ‘take,’ you could have allowed one rootstock bud to develop into a ‘new trunk’ and either Bud it this summer or whip & tongue graft it this time next year.

Failed scions usually shrivel, the bark dries and the buds die. Most will begin to push their buds with their new found warmth... but if the graft connection isn’t there. they’ll soon dry and die. Most of all, there’s nothing you can do to help it along – but there’s a lot you can do to mess it up! I say ‘Hands off’ – you done your best and time will tell

“Do the buds help the graft in any way?”

Not much, if any; you want the root energy to go to the scions. It can be partially, and perhaps totally intercepted by the rootstock buds if you let them develop ‘shoots’ (several sets of leaves with a stem competing with the scion growth. Though I don’t ‘mess with mine,’ I do monitor them often. If I see both scion growth and rootstock growth I’ll let the rootstock buds put on a ‘few’ leaves (two or four). "I think" it allows for ‘extra’ photosynthesis and promotes growth all around. Most fear they’ll sap the scion… It’s likely a petty argument... whereas the novice is best ‘rubbing off’ all rootstock buds as they emerge.

Just protect that little scion, and, I’ve always thought singing and/or talking to them is beneficial " title="Wink" />

“some of my grafts have pushed today Yay!!! does this mean they have taken?”

…not necessarily… but it’s a good sign! Often times, going from refrigerator storage to ‘outside’ growing weather, scion buds will ‘push’ using only the stored energy within their bark... If they wither and die that means the graft didn’t take. If they just keep growing – success! …I suspect success " title="Wink" />