gkowen:

"Is it ok to graft above the lower level of branches?"

If the tree is trained as a 'central leader' (fir tree like), you will be removing quite a bit of energy producing stock by cutting above the first set of branches. Hopefully, those branches will produce enough energy to feed the roots... Leave those branches growing for several years so as to feed the root system while the 'new tree' develops.

--- If you've got a 'vase shaped' tree, with a much smaller 'leader' taking off above those branches, the bulk of the tree would be within those 'branches,' and you'd obviously be leaving 'more tree.' If so, I'd have less concern for the root system. If you have a vase shaped tree (as I do), you could graft onto two of the (let's say) four branches, and end up with 3 varieties; eventually changing the entire tree over in several years...

"I know it will probably take slower and grow slower."

Actually, it should grow pretty well; just make sure none of the lower branches are shading the new graft too much once it leafs out.

"Do I need to FILL the cleft completely or just make sure to seal over it and down far enough to cover the split?"

Good question. What I use now days to 'fill in' the cleft is Plumbers Putty; it's inert, pliable, and cheep. Just insert the scions (I agree in using only one variety per cleft), then roll a ball of this putty and place it gently in the open wound. Don't force-fill it! You don't want it interfering with the scions or pushing them out of alignment; only to 'plug' the gaping gap. 3 inches (to me) is about the maximum diameter for a one-split cleft graft - remember, you can also make a second cross split and insert 4 scions. This would help heal / seal that large a wound...

Once you've gently plugged the gap(s), paint over it with whatever you're using to seal the graft. I prefer a latex based grafting seal ... the brush washes out easy and it expands a bit with growth. And don't forget to dab the tips of the scions, to keep them from drying out. Also, on such a large cleft there is usually an "open slit" in the stock extending beyond the bottom of the inserted scions; I also smear some putty into each of those 'slits' before painting / sealing.

My last suggestion (unless you request more) is to use a large screwdriver to pry this large a cleft 'straight open.' But don't pry it too hard! Leave it in there as you place both scions; gently spreading it as necessary to align them, then checking that neither have shifted before removing the screwdriver by pulling it straight up. Also ... as growth begins, watch for competing 'water-sucker' sprouts from around the grafts (on the original stock). If your grafts 'take,' rub off such suckers, if the scions don't grow, you might leave 2 or 3 of them to graft onto next spring...

gkowen;

I'm smiling - great work! The heavy clever sounds perfect, and cheep - I got mine from a thrift store.

I've found that a knife blade for grafting needs to be ridged; if it flexes, you'll get that "curved cut" effect you described. Other than a 'real' grafting knife (not cheep), many good grafters use an "x-acto knife." I prefer my grafting knife, it has about twice the cutting surface.

I suspect you did the 'double-wedge' cuts on your scions... Tapered to the bottom, and from one side; it's so important that when that stock comes together it hits cambium to cambium first. Nice 'tilt' on those scions! Regarding the 'wax,' you might as well use what you have - latex grafting seal (for what little you actually need) is not cheep either.

Two concerns on my part... It's still early, I'd have waited a good month longer to do this, but as long as there's no bone-freezing weather, or a bird doesn't land on the scions, you're probably OK.

Second concern (and most importantly): The scions look too long ... Most new grafters feel "more's better." Problem is, what little 'sap flow' that initially gets across those callousing 'connections' is barely enough to provide the energy to develop 2 or 3 buds - let alone 5. And in the end, you'll only need one. As they are now, they'll all begin to "push," and leaf-out, but may very likely peter-out when warmer weather hits and not enough 'food' makes it to each of them. --- My suggestion is to snip them back to only 3 buds each, then reseal their tips. If you decide to do this, use your sharpest hand pruners ... as not to disturb the placement of the scions. --- and I wasn't joking about the birds; but any kind of temporary netting can stop them.

I love the idea (and your effort) of putting up either a website, or just posting an update on this thread so we can follow the progress! No "stupidness" on your part, as far as I'm concerned - you're way ahead of the pack !

I'm glad you took my advice on shortening the scions, nice work (will we get a new photo?). I wouldn't worry about the freezing... Just save some of your scion wood, if you haven't chucked it yet. If, in a month or so, you think there's been any serious damage, or, if they don't leaf out as / when expected, it appears as though you have plenty of stock below the graft, just do it again " title="Wink" /> !

Greg; My best recollection is the grafts lag behind their contemporaries in the orchard by a couple of weeks. Of course that varies. I was thinking about your grafts ... as we bottomed out at 22 degrees back then, and hey, we've still got 4 inches of snow on the ground! And - the Hummingbirds are back!! (W/ feeder out)

There's no real hurry, if you've got protected dormant scion wood to follow-up with. One of the more successful grafts I've done are several type of bark grafts; and they're all done after the sap's flowing and the barks 'slipping.' So, if you don't get any action in a couple weeks past leaf-growth on your neighboring apple trees, hack it back another 3 inches - and do it again!

You had me laughing about that 'green stuff' on the burn pile, I'm sure it's perfectly viable - If you knew for sure what it was... Thanks for the update, and if/when they begin growing - we'll expect pictures

Greg, first off, nice photo of the goose! A "fading Birder" myself, I just had to look that beautiful bird up ... here's what I found: http://www.birdsofbritain.co.uk/bird-gu ... -goose.htm

The Grafts: Let Them Alone. I've got a tree-full of cleft and 'splice' grafts (about 7 individual limbs) on a 'Peach Plum' I'm trying to develop pollination limbs (of 'Petite,' & 'Green Gauge'). I look them over about twice a week, watching for 'nibbling.' If I find their leaves (always lagging slightly behind the base tree, thus more tender) are being nibbled, I'll smear some Tanglefoot around the base of the scion, or the stubbed off limb -- having looked for and smashed the offending earwig / aphid / caterpillar...

I'm sitting here smiling . . .. remembering myself all those years ago --- trying to think of anything and everything I could 'do' to speed the process, including 'breathing on them' -- assuming carbon dioxide was a 'growth enhancer.' Here are a couple of my concerns: that nibbling; a bird landing on them and breaking off the 'shoots;' children 'discovering' them; last and least -- hot weather, or 'sun damage.' For the most part, I've just taken my chances. It's very rare a bird will land and damage them; now that yours are so short, they'll probably not be viewed as landing twigs -- which has been the only problem I've had with birds. As far as heat, or sun, they should be able to take it, and thrive!

Don't even think about which one you'll 'remove.' You want them to grow as big, long and strong as possible this season. Tip prune the shoots and tie them at a branch angle with string this Winter; and let them race to health again next season. Eventually, one will become dominant, but that doesn't mean the other will (as the British say) become redundant. You want them to heal over that stub ASAP --- but there's little you can do to speed the process... And in this case, that may be your most difficult task! I can relate --- so follow that Goose!