There is this grafter in Edmonton by the name of Konrad who is one of the do-it-yourself experts and principal grafters at the Devonian Gardens. He has been a great help giving instruction on what way to use when having the problem of uniting scion/stocks that are different in size. This is the first time for me seeing so I'm practicing. I can't even say it has a name.
I would have thought that 2 cuts were needed on the stock, but he says only 1 cut if you notch the way he does;
http://home.comcast.net/~holla.....d/edit.htm
(when this gets posted I will give him the topic link and tell him what I did.)
…there are umpteen different methods of grafting and you need only two cambial cells to meet. However, the more the merrier! And it’s nice to end up with a connection, that until it’s calloused, can withstand the pressure of wind, mishandling or even a bird landing on it…
It appears to me the bark of his rootstock needs to be ‘slipping’ before this graft can be made. The bench working we’ll perform at the upcoming HOS Scion Exchange will be on completely dormant rootstock. Try slitting and separating its bark and you’ll tear it… You’d have to allow your rootstock to begin ‘growing’ or pushing sap before the graft pictured could be made. So the rootstock would have to be in a pot ...or you bending over while on your knees in the soil.
I suspect the second cut you’re asking about is the “tongue†of the classic “whip & tongue†graft. That tongue-cut allows the two pieces to ‘hold together’ along at least one side of their bark (cambial) edges – which compensates for a difference in size. What’s shown in the photos is Bark grafting, not bench grafting, and obviously not ‘Budding.’ I really didn’t understand the ‘second cut’ at the back edge of the stock… but it doesn’t matter as long as the cambium meets.
There are various ‘off-set’ dormant grafts that do the same with regard to uniting two different size pieces, but they require an exact matching of the cambial layers and are not near as precise as sliding the two together as in a bark graft. But both work, and if you’re good, they’ll work the vast majority of the time.
So, if you can wait for your rootstock (one year or eighty year old tree) to break dormancy and get enough sap flow to allow the bark to ‘slip’ free from the ‘wood,’ you can make that same graft. That’s a fairly tricky cut on the scion – so you may need several extras in order to come up with it. And – though your rootstock has come out of dormancy – your scion wood must still be dormant! …That is also something I like about the whip & tongue graft, you can do it while both are dormant, allowing both to ‘wake up’ at the same time …and you’re not counting on stored scions to last another month or two…
Viron. You are 'on the money' when it comes to everything you said. I was not so good at explaining the "second cut" in the 3rd picture so rather than update my image I'll just say there is a bigger image by clicking on the stationary 4 pic image; in turn wanting to explain the second trim job on the other side of pic-3 image. All cuts describing the scion here as it was not worth explaining the one time action splitting the slipping stock sheath.
Konrad's double cut on stock is different. That one takes an extra notch so that the top section above the place where the scion seats in will keep the cambium layer more intact and under pressure holding the scion in sideways.
-There is no tongue in this process.
Not as mechanically secured (as you say) as a tongue so it needs a few good wraps of tape. I agree, this would not be a good one for the scion exchange, but it of interest to me in grafting for coming to the rescue of a tree. Tree roots seem to have softer wood tissues and I think they "slip" earlier. In that sense it seems feasible to bring in 12" long root pieces that are oversizing the scion hoping that it slips.
Also something to think about when you want a specific rootstock that you are out of stock for.
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