Your local county extension service office should have publication EC 631 (Oregon State University Extension Service) which is very informative. Also, this site is very useful for ID ing pests. plant-disease.ippc.orst.edu/index.cfm.

I use the Mircro Crop with stay stuck M on all of our fruit trees as a dormant spray. It does list apples on the label for fungal diseases, I use 1 T / gallon for the apples. and 2 T / gallon for the Peaches and the problem of peach leaf curl. This is the only product I have found that stops Peach Leaf Curl. After spraying with Copper I try to do another different spray, lime sulfur, or other as an alternate. I have still had powdery mildew, on one apple: Jonathan, even after doing both of these in dormant sprays. I also do an oil spray with or seperate from these sprays. I prefer to do this seperate sprays, weeks apart. Dec, Jan, Then last just before bud break in March.

One note: I have found that when I mix things in a spray, this is when I am more often to get problems with the spray, either clogging the spray nozzle or damage to the plant leaves. But weather sometimes does not allow all these and time between.

I think that there are sprays that are for use after fruit set, but again these can be problems. Some thin the fruit, or may even empty the tree of all the fruit, so read the label, and maybe try on a small part of the tree first and wait a week and see what happens. I think 30 days after fruit set these become more safe, but still will thin fruit.

Once I have fruit on the tree I don't want any chemical on the tree/fruit. So this is when I bag the fruit, Memorial Day weekend, with zip lock sandwich bags with the bottom corners cut off. These really work! There are a few apples that will show some fungal damage in the bag because of moisture that is trapped in the bag. But this protects the apples 80-90% of the fruit is worm free, no codling moth damage, or other damage, fly, squirl, or other.

Jim N. Idaho