I'm on the yahoogroups site,
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/g.....a/messages
Everyone, including Elaine Ingham, now urges people to not use the airstones anymore, because they get clogged. I use 4 aquarium air pumps for two 5 gallon buckets, one fungal, one bacterial. I do it twice a year and it takes care of everything, including pesky rust on quince, serviceberries, and scab on apples.

They have a primer on the site about how to go about it. Like growing fruit, you can get into it at whatever depth you want. I have found a depth that greatly helps my garden but doesn't become a huge hassle for me.

Here are some notes that one guy on the site gave to all newbies: (Sorry, long)
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If you are purchasing compost, I recommend compost from KIS or another source of compost which is known to be microbially active.

If you are home composting, generally speaking fresh vermicompost is just about the best substance one can use for brewing compost tea. If you can purchase some composting worms and feed them a variety of food you really can’t go wrong.

If you want a fungal compost SFI has recommended mixing oat flour (or powdered oatmeal) about 1:20 with your compost and keeping damp and covered with a cloth for 8 to 10 days. This does work, although I am unsure whether there is a diversity of species of fungal hyphae grown. If you see white or blue fuzz growing on the surface turn it under. What we want is transparent and colored microscopic fungal hyphae. A side benefit to this procedure is that if left longer than 10 days I have seen multitudes of bacterial feeding nematodes growing. I’m not sure if this is peculiar to my compost. Try it. Compost tea is not a good medium for distributing nematodes. Better to distribute them by hand in the compost.

Another trick to encourage fungal growth is to use good quality fish hydrolysate diluted in water (e.g. around 2 ounces per gallon of water) and dampen compost and cover for around 5 days with a cloth.

Although I am providing these recipes and guidelines which have worked for me, I cannot guarantee they will work identically with all brewers and compost quality. I encourage you to experiment but exercise common sense and consult with your professional contact.

The recipe amounts given are for use with water that has a TDS/EC (total dissolved solids) of 35 PPM (parts per million) or less. This is really pure well or spring water with a relatively low mineral content. Water with a high mineral content (or that is turbid) has a lower capacity to maintain dissolved oxygen. If you know or suspect that your water has a high mineral content or high TDS then it is advisable to reduce the amounts of compost and feedstock (e.g. molasses, kelp meal, rock powders, fish hydrolysate, etc.). The amounts of compost recommended are for a very efficient brewer, capable of raising DO2 rates close to 10 or 12 PPM. If this is not your situation, reduce the amounts used.

Please be aware that the quality of the compost or vermicompost used is directly proportional to the quality of the compost tea produced.

Some Measures;
50 gallons US is 189 liters
1 gal. = 3.78 liters
1 liter = 4.2 cups US
1 liter = 1.05 quarts US liquid
1 US ounce = 29.57 ml

Bacteria/Archaea
You will note that I use the expression bacteria/archaea rather than just bacteria. This is because recent scientific research has revealed that there is a distinct species, Archaea, co-habitating with bacteria which previously was called bacteria. The only way to tell them apart is through complex analysis. The difference is in their membrane structure and therefore their ability to process (digest) different substances. Because I can’t tell them apart under the microscope I have decided to name them both.

A/ Recipe for a Diversity of Microbes; Nutrient Cycling
- measurements do not need to be precise; expressed in different units in brackets.

*compost/vermicompost – 2.38% max. (4.5 liters), (19 cups US), (4.5 quarts US) – reduce as required according to brewer and water quality

*unsulphured pure black strap molasses - 0.75% (1.4 liters), (5.9 cups US), (1.4 quarts US) – reduce as required according to brewer and water quality

*fish hydrolysate(high quality) - 0.063% - (120 ml); (4 ounces)
Do not use chemically deodorized liquid fish!

*kelp meal - 0.25% max. (0.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
NOTE: This is a maximum amount of kelp and you can experiment using less.

*soft rock phosphate granules/powder - 0.063% - (120 ml) (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
We grind up the granules into a powder with a coffee grinder

Length of Brew;
This will provide a CT with a microbial content of, bacteria/archaea and fungal hyphae (if present in compost) when brewed for 18 to 24 hours. When using our fungal inhabited vermicompost, the optimum time seems to be 18 hours for a bacteria/archaea and fungal brew. If brewed for 30 to 36 hours (and up to 42 to 48 hours if you have a microscope) there will be flagellates and amoebae (& some ciliates) as well, providing a functioning microbial consortia which is better for nutrient cycling in the soil/root interface. Because of the variations in brewing compost tea, it is better to examine the microbial content with a microscope and decide at what period of the brew you should apply it but if you do not have a microscope then use the CT between the time periods mentioned above for the desired effects.

Extras (when using extras you may wish to adjust amounts of other ingredients to avoid overload)

*pyrophyllite clay powder – 0.063% - (120 ml), (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
This is a good ingredient to stimulate more bacteria/archaea diversity which seems to experimentally contribute to disease control. It can be found here at a reasonable price. http://www.continentalclay.com/detail.p ... tegoryID=4

*alfalfa meal – up to 0.25% (.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
This promotes the growth of flagellates and amoebae. Just get the cheap stuff by the bag at the feed store, checking that it does not contain anti-microbials

*Canadian sphagnum peat moss Premier Brand – throw in a handful or two to promote flagellates and amoebae and/or fungal hyphae. Batches are inconsistent, so unless you have a microscope you won’t be sure which set of microbes it will promote but I have never seen anything bad.

B/ Fungal Dominant;

*compost/vermicompost (fungal content) - 2.38% max. (4.5 liters), (19 cups US), (4.5 quarts US)

*unsulphured pure black strap molasses - 0.25% (475 ml rounded), (2 cups US), (0.5 quart US)
NOTE: Also experiment with eliminating black strap molasses. Recent trials have shown that with some types of compost the fungi does better. If you have a microscope check it out for yourself.
NOTE: If you have activated your compost with oat flour I recommend NOT using molasses in addition to fish hydrolysate unless you are willing to brew for a longer period and best to have a microscope.

*fish hydrolysate(high quality) - 0.190% - (360 ml) (12 ounces) Do not use chemically deodorized liquid fish! You may experiment using slightly higher amounts.

*kelp meal - 0.25% max. (.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
NOTE: This is a maximum amount of kelp and you can experiment using less.

*rock phosphate granules/powder - 0.063% - (120 ml), (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
NOTE: We seem to get the same results using 100 ml of rock phosphate but experiment yourself. Sometimes we run the rock phosphate granules through the electric coffee grinder to get a fine powder.

Extras (when using extras you may wish to adjust amounts of other ingredients to avoid overload)

*you may also experiment with using humic acid (brand rated at 12% min.) for fungal stimulation at about the same rate as rock phosphate – 0.063% or as recommended by your professional contact. I do not have much experience using this in compost tea.

*you could also add one of the Alaska ‘Humus’ products and/or Canadian sphagnum Premier brand at 0.25% or less. If there are fungi spores present in the substance, hyphae should grow.

*you may add a little soil or partially/completely decomposed forest litter (rotted leaves, wood pieces). If you are applying CT to grass or flowers use some local soil from a healthy (unmanipulated by man) area where similar plant species are doing well. If you are applying to deciduous trees or bushes then gather some soil or forest litter from a deciduous forest where the forest appears healthy and has that…you know… fabulous earthy odor. I recommend using 500 ml. (0.5 liter) or 2 cups to begin with and see how that works out. Careful to not use big chunks if using the Microbulator 50.

Length of Brew
Brew until fungal hyphae is observed with a microscope or for 18 to 24 hours. When using our fungal inhabited vermicompost, the optimum time seems to be 18 hours for a bacteria/archaea and fungal brew, however fungal hyphae is extracted at 10 hours with less bacteria/archaea present. If you want a fungal dominant brew this may be the best time to apply. For those of you with microscopes, check it out. This recipe, provided there are fungi spores in your compost, should produce a higher volume of fungal hyphae and reduced bacteria/archaea numbers.
John S
PDX OR