Hello,
I have several young apple and pear trees, most I think are on standard or semi dwarf rootstock. Most are about 3-4 years old but are still somewhat small (biggest trunk is 3-4 inches in diameter). I'm thinking of trying to train some of the branches outward now, since they are all fairly upright. I want branches to start between 4 and 5 feet up, and the total height of the tree to be somewhere less than 10 feet. Does this make sense? I've experimented with tying old bike inner tubes around branches and staking those down to gently pull the branches down and out. I could then shorten the line periodically? Is this a good way to do it? Any good resources on how to do this? I've run out of bike tubes so might order some cheap medical tubing or similar online, but don't know how any of this will stand up to sun and weather.
Thanks!
Reed
Hi Reed, welcome to the HOS Forum ~
I'm curious if their ages are 3 to 4 years ‘old,’ or in the ground; usually a substantial difference. Pears have a critical need for training, and will fight you all the way, generally sending up shoots from their ‘bent over’ branches, or 'new' straight-up shoots off the main trunk... Apples are more cooperative. Cherries have a pattern that’s hard to break, and can easily get away if allowed.
My history and current method of training is having protected my trees with 3 to 4 steel fence posts pounded in around 3 feet from their trunks (ridges faced out), wrapped in 2 inch ‘poultry netting,’ then gently bending and tying over each limb no more than 60 degrees. Making sure the string or twine doesn't restrict the limb expansion, one year ‘tied over’ is all it takes to permanently establish that angle for scaffold limbs. And the post allow you to establish 'directional perfection' 
If you’ve freestanding trees, protected from deer by a perimeter fence, ‘spreader sticks,’ weights, or ground stakes can work. I prefer spreader sticks, as they’ll remain in the tree and usually not need adjusting … though fastening them can be tricky; I’ll use 'V' notches, but unless tied in some manner, if in a windy location, they often fall out...
I’ve watched ‘milk jugs’ used, tied to a limb with their water level ‘adjustable’ as the leaves set and the limb naturally weights itself down some. But they can decay in sunlight, look ugly and are difficult to keep balanced. I’ve used railroad ties, tied off and hung at ‘the proper’ distance out on the limb to get it to bend over … but they’re also difficult to adjust. You never want your limb tips bent toward the ground, or ‘water shoots’ will sprout up at their highest point and stop growth at the end.
I’d begin my limbs 3 to 4 feet, but that’s going for an open ‘vase shaped’ tree. If you’re wanting a ‘central, or modified leader’ tree, 5 feet up may work better. Commercial orchards prefer the modified leader structure, as a homeowner, I like to climb into the open center to prune, harvest, or just hang out 
There are no doubt endless methods for ‘spreading & training,’ just be careful not to allow anything to damage the limbs, split them when spreading(!), restrict their growth, or, as in the case of ‘staked to the ground’ tie-downs, break off a limb if the line’s hit by anything… I think training is the least emphasized aspect of home orcharding - and am impressed you’re looking into it 
Once again, Viron says it well.
One option that I have used for bigger branches on older trees is to bury a large limb from another tree to tie branches to it. That's when you need a lot of force.
I agree with Viron that training is way underused, and it is important. I also use v-notch sticks to spread out. Inner tubes work great. Remember that you only need the broad, strap, inner tube stuff to be easy around the branch. After the tie around the branch, you can tie that tie circle with a rope to something- another branch, a trunk, etc.
John S
PDX OR
A friend of mine used forked tree prunings to make hooks for branch training. He would cut one side of the fork long to use as a handle to reach up to hang the hook on the branch. Then he would anchor the hook with twine to the tree trunk or a lower branch or a weight on the ground. Unlike cordage, the hook can be easily moved around without being bothered by side branches on the branch you are training, cords would need to be loosened way up to get past side branches to move in and out if an adjustment is needed. The diameter of the hook is usually great enough to spread out the contact pressure as good as or better than the rubber inner tube you are using.
Weights suspended from branches do not have positive positioning capability so avoid suspended weights.
Thanks for the info! I am using loops of bike inner tube around branches, then tied down to the stakes with string. (Actually surplus 16 AWG wire since it has nice bright orange insulation... see if it lasts. Going for lowest cost here if you can't tell.)
These trees have had fairly minimal attention since planting other than a bit of pruning each year and some mulch. Trying to do a bit more for them this year. Will add a bit of fertilizer as well probably.
Shape goal is somewhat open, and taller and bigger than you would tend to find in a commercial orchard.
I made some notched sticks and could use them in a few places, but I can put stakes anywhere and really pull branches down and out so was thinking of mostly going with that, unless you guys think it doesn't produce good results.
("Down and Out in the Orchard and the Garden", or fruit growing on 5 dollars a year.)
They had spiral mouse guard things on for a while, and plastic tubes to keep deer from nibbling them, but the trees have now outgrown those. I put the chickens there occasionally with an electric fence but they're moved here and there on the property throughout the year.
Cabling down to stakes can work, just be careful if you mow with a tractor or rider as they could lose a branch instantly if a mower deck caught the line.
Don’t know how they got above the deer zone with browsing deer in the area, but bending may bring them back into the zone…
Also, be very careful when ‘spreading’ the limbs. Apples are most pliable; pears, with their straight-up habit are uncooperative.. Cherries can be brittle. I’ve actually waited until the sap’s begun to flow, maybe April, to bend & train my fruit trees as they feel more compliant and less prone to snapping. Few things can mess up a tree like snapping off a main limb…
...if anyone ever snaps a limb, drilling and placing a through-bolt with washers can close them up ... learned the hard way 
...I’d forgotten to mention, if you’ve lower limbs, they’re often great for tying off to ..for the one season it takes to establish the angle of a higher scaffold branch. OK, have fun
One technique that I have used was to use old plastic straws. They are actually a pollution hazard. I put the string through the straw, and loop it around a branch. Obviously, it's a smaller branch. The string can move a bit inside the straw, which is nice, and after the double loop around the branch, I can just tie the loop with a stronger rope to whatever. Easier on the branch and it puts pollution to a use.
JohN S
PDX OR
Straws is a good idea, thanks.
"I’ve actually waited until the sap’s begun to flow, maybe April, to bend & train my fruit trees as they feel more compliant and less prone to snapping."
Great point. Need the ground to thaw to drive stakes anyway. And after pruning. I'll probably prune in the next month or so... not sure.
Thanks again for the help guys!
John S said
One technique that I have used was to use old plastic straws. They are actually a pollution hazard. I put the string through the straw, and loop it around a branch. Obviously, it's a smaller branch. The string can move a bit inside the straw, which is nice, and after the double loop around the branch, I can just tie the loop with a stronger rope to whatever. Easier on the branch and it puts pollution to a use.JohN S
PDX OR
In addition to being more compliant, I don't think the new position begins getting locked in, until there is growth.
Idyllwild
simplepress
jafar
Marsha H
Viron
John S
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