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best plum/time to plant?
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ErickaM
2 Posts
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1
August 7, 2008 - 10:26 am

Hello,

I want to plant a single plum tree in my yard. I would love input as to what varieties do well on their own. I live in Vancouver, WA and the area gets full sun. Please let me know if you have a favorite that is easy to care for and produces tasty fruit. Also, should I plant in the fall? Any tips on where to get a good tree?

Thanks! Ericka

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Viron
1409 Posts
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August 7, 2008 - 6:46 pm

Hi Erica, By a “plum” I’ll suspect you mean a “Japanese” Plum..? They’re ripening now, have thin, often tart skin, very juicy (messy to eat) and tasteless varieties of the same can be found in grocery stores most times of year. There are also “European” plums that are often dried to become “prunes.” They are Dark blue with yellow flesh and ripen later than the Japanese (though I’ve read they originally came from China) plums…

Let’s talk “Asian” (‘Japanese’) plums: my “favorite” is Satsuma http://www.portstocktonnursery.com/imag ... 20Plum.jpg

Plum pollination chart: http://www.fruit-tree.com/plumpollen.html

The problem with “one tree” is that ‘plums’ need pollen from another similar variety of plum to pollinate and set fruit. If you live in a city neighborhood there’s a chance you’ve enough ‘plum trees’ around to pollinate it… I don’t, thus have relied on “Shiro” (another Asian plum) to pollinate my Satsuma. Many of us in the Home Orchard Society graft, including myself; thus we graft pollinators directly to our ‘base tree.’ In fact, my best producing “Satsuma” plum is actually a secondary graft on the Shiro (base) tree. But I love the Satsuma’s so much I’ve also a ‘stand alone’ tree.

You could take the chance that there are pollinators in your neighborhood, but if your new tree didn’t produce after four years I’d blame lack of pollination… The HOS gives lessons on both Bud Grafting and Bench Grafting & Top Working. Our Budding workshop has just passed (I believe), but come March of next year we’ll likely give our annual Bench Working lessons; Bench Working is grafting a scion (one year two-bud dormant shoot) to a small ‘Rootstock’ (the trees eventual roots). That would allow you to make your own tree – if we had and sold plum rootstock at that event -- which I don’t believe we do.

But two weeks later, at our annual “Cutting (Scion) Exchange," we will have many varieties of dormant grafting pieces of plum (and many-many other varieties of fruiting wood) as well as the rootstocks to place them on. ...But no DIY lessons... And I plan to be there, along with several other grafters to, for a small fee, graft ‘new trees.’ There’s an entry fee, and you buy the rootstock as well, but altogether it’s a much better deal than buying a ‘custom grafted’ nursery tree. And – you get to say you 'watched that tree made!’

Also – I generally teach the “Top Working” portion of our yearly grafting classes. We have two beginners classes before that I highly recommend to understand the concept (both have a modest cost). Top Working is grafting a new variety to an existing tree during the dormant season. Though ‘Stone fruit’ is known to be tricky to graft, I’ve found Asian plums relatively easy, or at least quite successful.

So – you may buy and plant a potted tree any time, including ‘now.’ Here are my favorite sources: http://www.onegreenworld.com/ http://www.raintreenursery.com/ & http://www.portlandnursery.com/ …in my favorite order…

What I’ve been known to do …watch Bi-Mart in the spring, snag a cheap ‘Satsuma’ plum tree in a bag; plant it and immediately graft a pollinator or two on it by ‘replacing’ one or two of its limbs, generally the same diameter as a one-year scion stick… But that sounds like cheating doesn’t it? Are you totally confused yet..? If so, let us know – there are likely other opinions around here too <img decoding=" title="Wink" />

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ErickaM
2 Posts
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3
August 7, 2008 - 9:39 pm

Wow, there is a lot more to planting a plum tree than I had anticipated. Thanks for all of the information and resources to consult! :D

I think I'll have to make a trip to a nursery with all of your input in-hand. . . I am not sure whether to go 'Japanese' or 'European,' both seem to have advantages. . . is it more likely that there are enough of one over another in the neighborhood, in your opinion? There are a lot of fruit trees in the neighborhood (mostly apple, from what I see), but is there a history of one or the other (Japanese/European) being planted more extensively?

Thanks again for the advice! I am excited to enter the world of fruit tree cultivation :D

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PlumFun
495 Posts
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4
August 7, 2008 - 11:25 pm

After growing quite a few plums, I have noticed some trends for the NorthWest. Any plum with myrobalan blood coursing through its veins seems to be at least partially self fertile. This is a good thing, because if you have an isolated tree, the fruit set will not be so much that you have to thin the fruits every year. In other words, they set just the right amount of fruit. But that advice goes mainly for myrobalan crosses.

Methley is a pretty good myrobalan cross, and early to boot. It would do well as a single tree.

Obilnaja is a myrobalan cross. It always sets a nice crop for me, but never so much that branches break. Tastes like Satsuma too. Raintreenursery.com sells this tree, Methley too.

The other star in my collection is called Morettini. I have a single branch of it grafted to another one of my Satsuma's. Morettini does have some wild plum blood in its veins. The Satsuma crop is pretty much nonexistant this year, but the one Morettini branch must have 200 plums on it! That was the suprise of the year. It could be partially self fertile as well.

Kuban Burgundy has myrobalan in it. It crops lighter than some, but seems to have more disease resistance, plus it has red foliage. Raintree says it has 1 inch fruits, but mine have been almost 2 inches. Maybe they are being conservative or something. Taste is mild.

Shiro is another that you might consider for a single tree. Some years you will get heavy, heavy crops. Branch breaker crops! When this happens it is best to thin them out early on. You'll get tastier, larger fruit if you thin them out. Involves a fair amount of hand work in those years. Here is a webpage of a vendor. LINK

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