I planted three apricots in 2003: Puget Gold, Moorpark, and Manchurian. First two died, the Manchurian is still alive but has never fruited. It has only bloomed once and is rather sickly. I've been grafting it over to plums but am re-evaluating this, the grafts take but now I have plums on rootstock that might up and die on me someday.
My peaches have not done well either. I planted Avalon Pride, Charlotte, and Frost. Peaches seem not-so-resilient on dwarfing rootstock. I rooted a cutting of the Frost and it does better at producing fruit than the grafted trees ever have.
When I was planting my apricots and peaches I had already read about how poorly they do in Western Washington. I thought I would try anyway. Now I have tree spaces that aren't producing anything and ten years behind on other fruit trees I planted the same year.
Apples, pears, cherries, filberts, and grapes grow well in my Puyallup WA yard.

To root the Frost peach I just pruned off a half dozen or so branches from the bare-root Frost peach tree when I first planted it and stuck the cuttings in dirt in a raised bed. I just kept them watered until they started growing. I didn't use rooting hormone on them. I got two trees out of the few cuttings I started with. I have had pretty good luck with rooting prunus species such as Portugal laurel and Otto Luyken for hedges in my yard too. They seem to root easily if you keep them from drying out and give them a little shade. Seemed to root same whether I used rooting hormone or without.

I have seen a mature black apricot I know would produce fruit by invoking it with human intervention. It is a species of apricot noted to be unable to self sow. It is located next to the gardening shed away from the wind facing side at our volunteer gardens and too far away of other apricots blooming at the same time and too early (to open pollinate) anyways. No pollinators were available at the time over 5 weeks ago I was noting it. Because I was told it was "slated for removal" I didn't pollinate it from these far away apricots, but I used some pollen from the one at the shed that day to bring home, which then I very easily initiated pollination of it upon my hybrid apricots.

Mine are another case that hybrids don't pollinate themselves or get pollination from other hybrids, so if you ever have heard this before it's true!

I guess as long as I made this note it's not a mistake to now remove the tree because (in any case) I know it would have produced properly anyways as I have more or less experienced much testing cherries this way. The only apricot wrong thing about it might be I can't get a graft anymore (?) as to see what the quality or fruit size will be like any more.

Other than isolated cases of partial protection as in the case of the above around the garden I see apricots trees live long when grown not far above the elevations of the Columbia river. The most notable example at these lower elevations is a Moorpark that had good quality delicious fruit, but very rarely. The tree was finally cut down by a new law firm that bought the elder ladies place which would have been a shame to her because it still looked vibrant every summer. My Vancouver WA location is higher (v. heights area) and receiving as much rain as Puyallup WA, where like here, you would be lucky to see any apricot tree outweigh ten years.