Hello All!
My first post here!
I am caring for apple trees I planted from whips that I want to train into the "central leader" form. Now for technical reasons I wont get into right now, I want that central leader to be as straight as possible for at least 6-8 feet. Also I want this tree to branch out at the 5' level or so due to deer pressure. So that means I want this tree to get as high as possible as soon as possible so we can branch out from the 5' and up as soon as possible. With that in mind when I do a heading cut on the central leader to the nearest bud, that bud often will grow out at and angle, messing up my "straight arrow" intentions for the central leader. So I am wondering, would I be better off just letting that terminal bud remain and not do the heading cut until I least get that straight 6-8 feet I want?
Thanks
Tom
Welcome, Tom 
And good question -- And, yes - leave that terminal bud alone. In fact, protect it! If ‘headed,’ or damaged, the next developing bud would likely phototrophic (grow toward the sun), but it's a ‘cleaner look’ to have next year's growth straight from this year’s bud.
But as mentioned, protect those buds… If you can, find some of the fir tree round netting tops, around 3 inches in diameter and used to protect the terminal buds of newly planted douglas fir trees, or fashion your own screens or netting around those buds. Keep in mind, if any get nibbled now - you've the same condition as them being removed during the dormant season… Darn Deer..
Eventually ..I’d love to learn why you’re going with a central leader design? I’m an open-vase kinda guy, myself 
Thanks Viron,
on the terminal bud netting. Are you suggesting it for deer issue only? Right now I have 5' high fence around each tree and have had no more deer nibbling . The reason for the central leader is two-fold..I need to keep the branches above the deer browse line and I think central leader is more suited for that. Also I want nice and straight to accommodate a picking platform I have engineered in my mind. - based on utilizing a hay wagon gear I have. The straighter the tree the better.
Thanks again for you advice. I have another question related to pears I want to ask...Will post it on a new thread.
Yes, the terminal netting would be only to protect that portion from deer. But if they’re fenced, you’re ahead of the curve 
I’ve got 6 new trees in, of varying species, each fenced with steel posts & 2 inch chicken wire for deer protection. In the past I’ve successfully trained open vase forms by tying corresponding branches to their nearest post and leaving them for 3 or 4 years until all the branches are above the browse line.
But it sounds like you’ve got an interesting system in mind, so please keep us posted
Idyllwild
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