I am thinking of making a belgian fence from M26 rootstock. I will graft some apples on them. Would it be best to stick to 1 type of apple for uniform growth or multiple varieties for looks? Also, would east/west be better than north/south orientation? What type of apples should I try? What are your favorites. Thanks for any and all info.
Different varieties! That's one of the main reasons for having small espaliers, is to get as many varieties into a space as possible. North/South is traditional, but East/West would work fine. In your zone you can plant just about whatever you want. Asking our favorite varieties on this board could be hazardous, but I'll vote for Hall and Queen Cox (let the hate mail begin).
It is important to choose disease resistant varieties for lower maintenance. Take a look at Ashley apple. It is a new introduction from Kazakhstan that tastes like Jonagold and it is scab resistant.
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Ok I have 10 rootstocks on order (M26) and scionwood from 7 apple varieties. I will do whip and tongue grafting for them. How do you seal the graft after the graft is done? I saw a website that suggests waxing the whole scion end of the graft. I also have rubber banding I can use. What is your preferred method. Also, should I plant only 6 of the grafts and keep 4 out in case not all the grafts take?
Thanks for any help.
Sorry for my late response. I will try to answer your questions, and perhaps anticipate several others. (1.) Useful background info: I started a Belgian fence (of nearly two dozen different apple varieties) about 10 years ago. For the past several years, I have been teaching a class at the UW's Center for Urban Horticulture called "The Art of Espalier." This year's two different classes are scheduled for different Saturdays: one in April, and one in May. Plus, at the upcoming Feb. 14-18 NW Flower & Garden Show (in Seattle's Convention Center), we will have a booth in which we will have an espaliered apple tree on display, plus a large photo of my Belgian fence. Bonus: There will be a lecture on espaliered fruit trees on Wed., Feb. 14 at 9:30 am. (2.) One of the best decisions I made was to grow DIFFERENT apple varieties (called cultivars). The variety presents an exciting element. Because I grow apples from all over the world, I call mine the "United Nations of apple cultivars." I strongly encourage you to go to an OCTOBER fall fruit show -- either the HOS one near Portland, or ours in Seattle -- where over a hundred different apple (and pear) varieties will be available for tasting. (3.) For EASE OF CARE, you might consider "scab immune" apple cultivars such as Liberty, Freedom, Goldrush, Bramley's Seedling, Sir Prize, Priscilla, NY 55140-9, and Buckley Giant. Other "scab resistant" varieties include Roxbury Russet, Erwin Bauer, Ashmead & Williams Pride (among others). BTW, both apples and pears work well for a Belgian fence, and you may combine them if you prefer. My Belgian fence is made up entirely of apples, but I have a nearby espaliered "Lincoln Canopy" of pears, Asian pears, and apples. (4.) There are numerous ROOTSTOCK OPTIONS for you to think about. After careful consideration, I decided to use an interstem tree that combines MM.111 on the bottom (for better anchorage and drought tolerance) and a M.9 section in the middle (for dwarfing effect on the overall tree). Obviously, the individual apple cultivar is grafted onto the MM.111/M.9 interstem, and forms the top tier of the tree. You can use an M.26 if you like, but the root structure of an M.26 is smaller and less involved than the root structure or an MM.111. Some people also like to use an even smaller rootstock than an M.26 (such as an M.9, M.27, or P.22). Keep in mind that: the smaller your rooting structure, the greater the need to stake your trees (and not just when they are young, but for the life of the trees), and the greater the need for irrigation, especially for droughts. (5.) N-S is best because of the a balance between morning and afternoon sun exposure on the E and W sides. If planted E-W, your Belgian fence will want to grow to the S side, and it will be "unbalanced" to that side. (6.) I see you live in Rochester, WA. If you have additional questions, feel free to contact me directly: David at applesandmore@hotmail.com. I happen to be president of the Seattle Tree Fruit Society.
I can relate to your plight, as well as to your enthusiasm and eagerness to teach yourself. This was precisely the position I was in approximately 12+ years ago. Then, I realized that there was not much useful info out there. Expecting that I would need to learn how to graft my interstem trees, I joined the Seattle Tree Fruit Association (we also publish a useful monthly newsletter). I read all I could find, and sought any and all classes & workshops on espaliers. Eventually, it was mostly a self-taught experiment. After your Belgian fence takes shape (mine took approx. 6+ years to get to this point), it's very gratifying to see the results, and to receive lots of positive comments from neighbors and friends. My advice: Have fun! It's a fun project. Again, feel free to contact me directly (at applesandmore@hotmail.com) if you want/need advice or suggestions along the way. BTW, I forgot to mention one very important element: soil prepartion. Because growing a Belgian fence is a long-term project, I chose to thoroughly prepare my soil in advance of planting my trees (1 used one-year old whips) by rototilling and amending my existing soil (which was mostly clay). In hindsight, I'm not at all sorry that I did this extra step. Lastly, training young trees is somewhat daunting, but is also very gratifying. Good luck!
I was planning on digging a 'bed' about 4 foot wide by about 25 foot long about 18 inches deep and amending the soil there. I also planned to use landscape fabric for weed control. But just lately I have been a bit side tracked. I am building and ultra dwarf orchard off of my patio. I have 6 ultra dwarf trees I will put in puts and plan to put rocks arround with a sitting area inside. Its always fun to play.
Time to bring this back up. Will it work to plant 10 apples in a north south direction along a chain link fence that is my dog pen? The fence is 6 feet tall. I have about 70 feet of it. Is there any negatives to having it up against a chainlink fence? Thanks for any input. I plan to start taking pics of this project soon.
My thoughts are: that fence would become a permanent structure. ...but I've seen this done on chainlink fences, and it always looks better than 'chain links!' You may have a more difficult time weeding at the base of the fence / trunks with the fence in the way, but with good preparation and the weed barrier you described, that could work. ...but if you've got a 'leg-lifter,' that might not be beneficial.
I envy everyone with the ability to Espalier... I've got deer... and I still can't understand how I got to the point of having two 12 foot X 2" galvanized pipes, stepping off my espaliered layout, choosing my varieties … when it finally struck me - what about the Deer?! Yes... I was much younger, and still smile about that. But to me, the training would be the best part! And since I haven't commented on this subject, I too suggest you go with many "cultivars," for length of (eating) season and pollination.
I'd met a guy my second year grafting at our scion exchange who asked if I'd graft on some pollinating "varieties" to his extensive and beautiful espaliered apple (N-S) rows (about 60 feet total) of basically one variety in Gales Creek (Ore.). I did, about 2 days worth. Stopping in once in a while on our way to the beach, they've done great. So definitely use more than one cultivar / variety. {Speaking of which, I'd happily use the more correct term "Cultivar" when describing a "Variety," but like calling a “Cutting†a "Scion" – we might loose some}.
Sounds like you've a busy Spring? The best kind 
Ok I grafted my 10 apple rootstocks last weekend. I have them wrapped in wet newspaper and pland to keep them moist for about 4 weeks till I plant. I am not confident of my grafting skills so I plan to plant them in a garden plot first to see if I get any to make it before putting them in the final strip where the belgian fence will be. Most of the scionwood I had seemed undersized and I had trouble with the Omega grafter and the 'whip and tongue' grafting. I probably should have cleft grafted. Oh well, I am learning.
Greg, this worries me:
[quote="gkowen":2lvx87f8] I have them wrapped in wet newspaper and pland to keep them moist for about 4 weeks till I plant.[/quote:2lvx87f8]
I’d suspect that if you have a loss it may well be from delaying the growth on these new grafts. I'd plant them immediately (in soil), where you want them to eventually be. The sooner they begin to grow, the better the conditions for meshing their cambial cells and naturally sealing the grafts. If planted in place and some don't survive, remove and replace them. Or, let the rootstock buds sprout, grow strong & tall, develop a root system, then graft onto them next spring (or bud if they're strong enough this August).
An Omega? My concern with that machine is just as you mention; a poor connection between missized rootstock & scion. If the scion shifts away from the edge, it's all over 
And from what I've seen ... it's a very shallow connection... That's where hand-grafting a whip & tongue is so much better; you match the length of your cuts to what will best accommodate the mismatched pieces, then use the tongue to stabilize the scion position at the edge of the rootstock. I've seen the "Omega" in action, and I realize it has several different splice heads - but I'll take my knife for short runs and odd sizes every time.
Cleft grafting a rootstock entails that 'microsurgery' I've joked about. You're placing some mighty tiny pieces of scion into a very small 'cleft.' And that cleft leaves a mighty ugly wound; but honestly, that's one of the most difficult decisions we make when bench grafting... But as I first said, I'd get those little trees planted ASAP - as far as I can tell, there's no better reason not to..?
The only reason I haven't is I read on a website that they graft commercially and they get better success just grafting the tree and waiting a month to plant. During the month they do not move it at all, only add water. The idea I got was that the wind or anything that might move the tree could cause the graft to fail. They also protect it from colder weather this way.
Greg, you've likely seen this aftercare advice before: viewtopic.php?t=273 ... but there it is anyway.
Honestly, I don't know of any commercial growers who’d propagate by bench grafting; around here they bud exclusively. Perhaps with roses, or softwood plants, but apple trees ... they'd go broke bench grafting! They even bud their multi-grafted trees…
Once your grafts are wrapped, you should be able to shake them (but don't) pretty good and not have any shifting occur. My daughter wrapped my grafts at the Exchange this year, with a week or two of heavy practice. We'd give em all (fresh apple grafts on varying sized 'rootstock') a good shake, then carefully un-band them; there was never any misalignment...
And we'll not see any weather cold enough to damage apple grafts now. I'd treat them as you would any mail order tree fresh out of dormancy; heel them in until your hole's are dug, and plant them where you want them to grow. If they don't callous and 'take,' it won't be from motion or cold.
While on the subject ... there is a graft one of our HOS bench grafters uses alot. It's a nice alternative (now I tell you!) between (but don't touch those trees!!) ..the off-sized whip & tongue and the brutal cleft. Here's what it might look like when calloused over: http://web.ukonline.co.uk/suttonelms/laxton.jpg as opposed to a ‘cleaner’ whip & tongue graft: http://www.oznet.k-state.edu/hfrr/HortImage/graft.gif
When the rootstock's two or three times the diameter of the scion, we'll (I've done it too) lop it off wherever best, then make a slanting cut on the scion. Then make a corresponding cut on the 'edge' of the stock, exactly the same width as the scion. You can actually match all the cambium if you're good. Then make a small tongue on each that, after they're slid together, will maintain this 'perfect' match. I'm too lazy to actually hunt down its name... but it's a kind of side graft, with a large 'level' area of the rootstock still exposed, and the scion taking up its own width along the opposite edge. You'd wrap & seal as needed, then treat it like a tree!
Obviously, we're a bit late on that; and maybe this technique should be shown at next years grafting classes as an alternative to the cleft on such 'small' stock. But you've sparked the process with your questions. ...So, I'd put those trees in the ground, and cage them in with chicken wire -- I do! -- 4 steel posts and lots of chicken wire
Chicken wire? LOL, I don't have deer to worry about. I only have rocks to dig out. I get 2 wheelbarrow loads of rock for each wheelbarrow load of dirt. I dig with a 6 foot crowbar. I really appreciate all the time and effort you put into sharing knowledge on these forums Viron. I am about ready to tackle that gravenstein tree. I have a wedding to photograph this Sunday but I might try to do it before I go. Iam anxious.
I haven't photographed a wedding in years! ...Probably did at least a dozen... Guess all my friends and family have finally gotten married, or maybe I've discovered another hobby..?
Yes, Chicken wire! ...In both my children's first grade classes I grafted each student an apple tree; even with prior warning, none brought in viable scions... So they each got a Wolf River apple tree! That's been six & eight years ago ... and you should, or maybe you shouldn’t hear just how few survived: Each story begins with: “It grew, but†… "my dad hit it with the mower," "our dog chewed up mine," "my brother ran it over with his dirtbike" ...I've stopped asking... Anyway, fencing in a delicate anything seems a good idea; the only problem is removing the fence to pull grass & weeds.
Rocks... the only thing 'good' about poor clay soil is there's rarely a rock. I grew up in Portland, you had me laughing with your rock-to-wheelbarrow ratio ... I can relate, or at least remember 
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It amazes me how many 'hits' this forum gets, and just now I'm bouncing between answering questions over here, and reading about an alternative to iPods elsewhere (the kids are home this week and lobbying hard for iPods). So, I'm as happy to find advice on something I know next-to-nothing about as the next guy! And if I can provide some advice -- all the better 
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Hope it's not too late. One piece of advice: Orientation, exposure to the sun, and access for maintenance and harvesting are important considerations.
Although it's certainly possible to plant your Belgian fence against a chain link fence, there might be reasons why you wouldn't want to.
For example, it it's planted in an E-W direction, the exposed side would obviously be facing either N or S. Of the two, N would not be ideal. On the other hand, if it's planted in an N-S direction, the exposed side would obviously be facing either E or W. Of the two, E would not be ideal.
For what it may be worth, mine is an N-S oriented Belgian fence, and I planted mine approx. 4' from the existing chain link fence, so that I could do maintenance and harvesting from both sides. Obviously, if you plant it against a fence, you would have access to it only from one side. The other advantage of N-S orientation with space on both sides is that it's exposed to the sun (on the E and W sides) in both the AM and PM hours, which makes for somewhat balanced growth.
Somethings to think about.
How is your Belgian Fence coming along? I have a 12' BF planted east-west on M26 rootstock in Vancouver, WA. The trees are starting their 5th year since I planted them and cut them down to encourage my main branches to grow to form the fence. There are 10 different varieties planted in the fence and all have remained healthy and vigorous with very little intervention (other than pruning). Despite having good blooms for the past two years, fruit production has not been particularly notable on any of the varieties other than Greensleeves. This year I didn't have a particularly good flower bloom, so I'm not expecting much fruit.
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