Menu Close
Avatar
Log In
Please consider registering
Guest
Forum Scope






Start typing a member's name above and it will auto-complete

Match



Forum Options



Min search length: 3 characters / Max search length: 84 characters
Register Lost password?
sp_TopicIcon
Another question on pruning 2 yr old grafted apple trees
Avatar
Bunchgrasser
7 Posts
(Offline)
1
September 25, 2014 - 4:13 pm

Hi gang,

Sorry I don't have any pics at the moment, but I have several dozen apple varieties that I grafted myself onto M7 rootstocks back in spring of 2013. They are all in pots (with bamboo support sticks) and range in height from 4-7 feet tall. I've purposely let them grow into tall whips, but I plan to cut them back this winter to a uniform height to force out lateral branches. I prefer open center (vase shaped) trees rather than central leader.

My question is: what height is recommended to cut them back to? I have 2-3 trees that have naturally started their laterals already so for those I'm pretty set on where to prune back to. But for the others I'd like to cut back to a uniform height since these trees will be planted in my orchard a little over a year from now. I've read online that about 32" above ground level is about right. Anyone disagree? What other considerations are there? Also how many lateral branches should I aim for? And if I want more laterals, do I keep pruning back the existing laterals to force new ones from the main trunk?

Thanks in advance for any advice/suggestions you have.

Dan M

Avatar
Eric T
Bothell, WA ; Rainier, OR
17 Posts
(Offline)
2
September 25, 2014 - 7:33 pm

This can be pretty opinionated, but here's mine :P
Figure out the lowest level you want branches - if there are no obstacles, as low as 3ft may be great. But if you want to mow/graze/trellis around it, you may be better off at 5 or 6 ft.
From 3 ft, I would train out 2 branches at the lowest level, 2 more 2-3 feet up, and then 2 more 2-3 up from that.
From 5-6 ft, I would usually cut this down to 2 level but still keep 4-6 branches total.
When you cut the center, you will need to do some training to keep young branches from shooting up near the trunk.
If something doesn't have laterals yet, just let it live a little until you see them emerge...

Avatar
John S
PDX OR
2992 Posts
(Offline)
3
September 26, 2014 - 8:31 pm

"This can be pretty opinionated, but here's mine :P"
That's a great way to say it.

I just look at the tree and see what seems right for it. Widely spaced branches and angles. NOthing clogged in the middle of the tree, fitting the space, no duplication, etc.
John S
PDX OR

Avatar
Viron
1409 Posts
(Offline)
4
September 27, 2014 - 9:12 am

Hi Dan, thought I’d let a couple other opinions emerge before basically concurring with you… To achieve the ‘open vase’ (which is my preference too), you’ve got it, cut off the vertical growth above the highest desired branching height and allow the buds below to emerge as ‘branches.’ 32 inches would place your branches ‘below’ that, so a cut at 36 inches would likely work well. I like the open vase so as to step up and into the middle of the trees; it also allows more even sunlight penetration and air circulation.

As the ‘branches’ sprout, watch that no ‘one branch’ becomes dominant. Give them some time to grow, but if their growth isn’t fairly even, ‘tip pinch’ (pinch out) the fastest growing branch to allow more energy to feed the others (the pinched branch will usually ‘fork,’ which is often desired). Usually the vigor of the tree will determine the number of buds that push toward branches after the terminal bud’s cut on the trunk.

I wouldn’t do any limb-spreading the first year; just allow them to grow up. But the following year you’ll have to do some serious limb-spreading to open up ‘the vase.’ With heavy deer predation, I’ve always had to enclose my young trees with four steel posts wrapped in ‘chicken wire’ fencing from bottom to top. A definite hassle, but an excellent way to train four main branches, by tying them to the posts for a couple seasons … then eventually removing the posts and wire.

I’ve seen some ‘neat’ little ¾ X ¾ inch wood steaks with finishing nails inserted at each end with a sharp part ‘out.’ They’ve worked well for others when spreading those ‘first year limbs.’ I’d used notched steaks …but limbs first :roll:

As John mentioned, each tree is different, and will sometimes indicate what’s best for them. And as Eric led off with … this is opinionated.

Avatar
Bunchgrasser
7 Posts
(Offline)
5
September 29, 2014 - 7:57 am

Excellent - thanks for the advice everyone!

Dan

Forum Timezone: America/Los_Angeles
All RSSShow Stats
Administrators:
Idyllwild
simplepress
Moderators:
jafar
Marsha H
Viron
Top Posters:
John S: 2992
Rooney: 854
DanielW: 519
PlumFun: 495
Reinettes: 429
jafarj: 422
davem: 389
sweepbjames: 260
Dubyadee: 247
jadeforrest: 237
Newest Members:
patriceasbury7
rosariofrawley4
dorothychowne0
jamikawatson
myrtlebackhouse
karllee952
roxiez5109
colleensasaki54
florenciachappel
lacyv459837
Forum Stats:
Groups: 1
Forums: 4
Topics: 2973
Posts: 17293

 

Member Stats:
Guest Posters: 0
Members: 1928
Moderators: 3
Admins: 2
Most Users Ever Online: 355
Currently Online: sweepbjames
Guest(s) 9
Currently Browsing this Page:
1 Guest(s)