Hello - Planning to attend the fruit show next Sunday in hopes of coming home - Forest Grove, Western Washington County - with pears and apples to plant and train/espalier.
The site will be the eastern edge of a 1-year-old vegetable plot - 15 feet north-south orientation from curb to sidewalk - and another 15 feet from sidewalk to house shade. So, 30 feet length is available, with a sidewalk in the middle. The fence shouldn't be more than 5-feet high.
We'd like to plant disease-resistant pears and apples - cultivars best for preserving - and plan to use the bagging/footies (genius!) method of coddling moth/maggot control.
How many of each and which cultivars do you recommend?
What root stock(s) do we want?
How best to construct the support fence?
Does the soil (zucchini and peas in there now) need additional prep? It was limed last fall and all the vegetables did very well this year. Although we did have early blight on the fingerling potatoes, we ended up harvesting 55 pounds. Our particular microclimate is also happy heaven for powdery mildew.
Many thanks - in advance - for any advice, tips and suggestions you can give us.
Best,
Bethanye
This is a great line of questioning to ask at the information booth at the show. Too many questions here to answer.
There are so many varieties of apple and pear. They will need to pollinize each other.
When you say best for preserving, do you mean canning, making applesauce, storage/keepers, drying, or what?
Someone else will have to answer specifics of espalier because I have never done that.
Thanks<
JOhn S
PDX OR
Hello neighbor! I'm in Hillsboro. I planted some apples and pears this last spring for doing espalier. I did the apples on M9 and the pears on Quince C. For the length between the trees it depends on what style of pruning you plan on doing. I'm just doing the cordon style, so planted mine 8 or so feet apart (so each side branch can reach out 4ft). You can do more or less. Just depends on the style and how short you keep the branches trimmed. I have 6 trees planted in about a 50 ft row. Before next spring I'll put up a support fence. Many ways to do that and in the way long run they should hold themselves up. I've done hours of online research on doing espaliers and really haven't found an all inclusive resource that explains it all. Just some here, some there. If anyone has one let us know!
~jerilee
Thanks John. By preserving, I mean canning. Read somewhere in this forum that the Bartlett pear is self-pollinating. Is this true?
Thanks, also, Jerilee. Looks like our measly 30 feet will fit, at most, 4 trees, two on each 15-foot segment. We could, of course, plant two 30-foot rows, bring it up to eight trees. (Yeah!) I think we'll do the cordon style, too. Read elsewhere in this forum about quince OHXF 333 & OHXF 87 rootstock for pears. See you used quince C. Is one "more dwarfing" than another?
Definitely going to broach these issues at the show. Expect it'll be somewhat hectic there, so wanted to try to begin my education before hand. Have Joan Morgan's "New Book of Apples" coming from the library, but unable to locate similar resource for pears. Plan also to read the relevant OSU Extension publications before Sunday, as well. Any and all additional resource suggestions will be most appreciated.
Again, thanks!
- Bethanye
I have both a Bartlett and a Seckel pear. Nobody in my house will eat a Bartlett as long as they can get their hands on a ripe Seckel instead.
I don't know how well a Seckel would can. The flesh is very tender and smooth, so it might not hold up to extended cooking. I'll be baking with Seckels for the first time today That's not canning, but at least I'll know if they disintegrate with heat.
Seckel makes a really dandy dried pear.
If you are going to can apples, you need an apple that holds it's shape with long cooking. The cooking apples that I am growing are Newton Pippin and Belle de Boskoop (no fruit, yet). I've decided to order a Swaar, which is a heavy apple, so I expect it to cook well.
All the three above are storage apples, so no need to can them if you have some way to keep them cool to store them.
OK - Cook/can/poach the Bartlett and save the Seckel for fresh (they're so cute!). Looking forward to Sunday's show and finding out if this pairing will work for us. How long did it take for your pears to bear fruit? (Do you have bees?) Also, how long have your apples been in the ground?
My Bosc had fruit 3 years after planting, the Seckel, 5 years.
I inherited my Bartlett and it was nearly dead, literally 3 leaves on the tree. It was at least 6 years old, and 6 years later (making it at least 12 ), I just got my first fruit off of it. It's finally starting to grow and is now up to 4 1/2 feet tall.
Apple trees fruit anywhere from 3 years to 5 years after planting.
There are a few honey bees in the area, and there are some other wild bees and different pollinators. I do planting specifically to provide a long flower season to feed the bees. I want to make sure they both live and see my place as a good place to keep included in their route.
Thought I'd post the outcome of our visit to the All About Fruit show today. Ray Davis took such good care of us, that he is now - and forever after shall be known as - the Godfather of our Fruit Trees. What an invaluable resource he is! Here are his suggestions, which we followed:
Liberty and Chehalis apples on M9 rootstock and Rescue pear and Chojuro Asian pear on Quince C rootstock.
A shout-out - also - to Viron who suggested we simply pull out our mildewy/non-producing grapes and put in kiwi. Brilliant! Jim Gilbert will be hearing from us just as soon as we yank out those grapes.
It was a super show. More than a novice could take in all at once. Thank you all. We'll be back!
Idyllwild
simplepress
jafar
Marsha H
Viron
John S
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